When pinning bolsters to a blade what is the best technique for making the pins invisible?
I’ve had some luck making the pins blend into the bolster but it has been hit or miss. I usually make fixed blade full tang knives. I use brass, nickel silver, or stainless steel for the bolsters. I cut, form and fit the bolsters to the blade and then drill the holes for pins into the bolsters. Next, I chamfer the holes, put the bolsters on the knife, insert the pins [made from the same metal as the bolster] and then peen the pins. I grind off the excess and hope the pins blend into the bolster and “disappearâ€. So far I have had mixed results. Some of the pins blend into the bolster and become invisible, and some pins are still visible no matter what I do.
I must be close to doing it right because about half of the pins blend in perfectly. I am looking for any suggestions on what I might need to do differently so all of the pins blend in.
My chamfers might be too shallow or the chamfer angle might be too shallow/deep. It has been suggested that I squeeze the pins in a vice before peening them to make them fill the drill holes completely.
I am open to any and all suggestions. I really want to get it right.
Dan
Daniel, Three things.
One. The taper for the hole might work better for you if you taper the hole with a tapered reamer. I would suggest doing this by hand using the "T" handle. It don't take very much as long at the pin swell is below the finished level of the bolster's surface.
Another thing. De grease the pin and the hole and keep it clean while you upset the pin stock. This will come close to correcting your problem, if not completely fix it.
Number #3. Buy a Handles and Guards book by Joe Keeslar. This book will cover the above process and many more.
Daniel,
What are you using to upset the pins? If you are using a flat faced hammer, you may get better results with a ball peen. It takes a little practice but it will be more efficient in upsetting the end of the pin. I have a couple of different weight ball peens hammers and couldn't get by without them. (Also, make sure that the ball is polished well.)
Gary
|quoted:
Daniel, Three things.
One. The taper for the hole might work better for you if you taper the hole with a tapered reamer. I would suggest doing this by hand using the "T" handle. It don't take very much as long at the pin swell is below the finished level of the bolster's surface.
Another thing. De grease the pin and the hole and keep it clean while you upset the pin stock. This will come close to correcting your problem, if not completely fix it.
Number #3. Buy a Handles and Guards book by Joe Keeslar. This book will cover the above process and many more.
Thanks Lin. I have a tapered reamer but it is too large for the 1/8" holes I normally use. I will look around and see if I can find one that will work. Also I will get the Handles and Guards book on order ASAP. Last, it never occured to me to clean the pins before working with them. It only makes sense that dirt or scale left on the pin will show up as a ring around the pin. I will be working on a couple of knives this afternoon. I'll let you know how things work out.
Dan
|quoted:
Daniel,
What are you using to upset the pins? If you are using a flat faced hammer, you may get better results with a ball peen. It takes a little practice but it will be more efficient in upsetting the end of the pin. I have a couple of different weight ball peens hammers and couldn't get by without them. (Also, make sure that the ball is polished well.)
Gary
Hi Gary,
Yes I'm using a ball peen hammer. I have helped make several airplanes and have been given the opportunity to make any number of rivets
Thanks for the reply.
Dan
