Lots of guys use a coupler nut slotted and pinned to the tang; loosely; so that you have up/down, sideplay. Coupler nut holds all thread, buttcap bolt; etc.

M

I use coupling nuts a lot. They are long enough to cut the slot and still leave enough threads to adjust the finial screw to length and be very strong.

Lin where do you get the coupling pins? Are they tightened with a hex wrench?

Scott,

The coupling nuts are available at almost any Home Improvement or hardware store. The coupling nut goes on the end of the tang and is pinned through the tang. The threaded rod is brazed (I assume) into the finial/butt cap/end piece and pushed through the handle and threaded into the coupler. The tightening is usually accomplished by either drilling a hole into the finial for using a tightening rod or slotting it for a screw driver. Lin may have other methods, but I think that's what he shows here.

Lin, Please correct anything I may have gotten incorrect, and answer me something else, if you would. I'm trying to visualize using this method with a take-down model, and having difficulty figuring out how to bed the handle around the tang with that nut on the end.

Joshua, You are correct. This arrangement could be considered the basis for many variations including the exact way you describe by slotting the finial or drilling a small hole. I will generally place the arrangement as far toward the rear of the handle as possible. This would be used for a glued handle.

In order to bed the handle and remove it, you probably would need to reverse the arrangement. I would hard solder the machine screw to the tang (or just thread the tang) and also hard solder the coupling nut to a finial ball. The finial could then be unscrewed and the tang, which now has threads, will slip out the handle.

This is the finial nut I made for my recent boar sword. The coupling nut was turned down to round and stepped slightly to fit into the "ball" which was square at that time, hard soldered, and later turned into an acorn. Having a threaded tang allowed it to pass through all of the many parts over and over.

Thanks Joshua. Amazing work Lin and appreciate the explanation.

I failed to mention this. I prefer no slots or holes unless it is a true take down. They just invite someone to try to dismantle it.

With the above acorn finial (no holes or slots), I wrap leather around it with a few tiny drops of super glue and do the final tighten up with pliers,... gently. Then use acetone to clean it up.

|quoted:

Joshua, You are correct. This arrangement could be considered the basis for many variations including the exact way you describe by slotting the finial or drilling a small hole. I will generally place the arrangement as far toward the rear of the handle as possible. This would be used for a glued handle.

In order to bed the handle and remove it, you probably would need to reverse the arrangement. I would hard solder the machine screw to the tang (or just thread the tang) and also hard solder the coupling nut to a finial ball. The finial could then be unscrewed and the tang, which now has threads, will slip out the handle.

This is the finial nut I made for my recent boar sword. The coupling nut was turned down to round and stepped slightly to fit into the "ball" which was square at that time, hard soldered, and later turned into an acorn. Having a threaded tang allowed it to pass through all of the many parts over and over.

That's a beautiful handle Lin. What is the metal material?

The reversed arrangement (threaded rod attached to tang) is the process I am using on a dagger I'll be bringing to the ICCE show. On glued handles, I've never made the mechanical connection before. I guess I never considered it necessary if the handle wasn't made to come apart. I just used a textured post on the cap so it would anchor well in the glue. I suppose it would help ensure a tight fit that didn't slip during set up. Note to self for next time!

Joshua,

The fittings are Silicon Bronze and 420 stainless. I forged the major parts from the 420. The D guard, the "hanger", and the butt cap. From 1-1/2 X 2 inch bar.