Joshua

There are pros and cons to each method. A stamp typically can not have the detail that an etch can have, but the stamp is typically deeper than the etch. The etch can be done on hardened steel and the stamp cannot. The stamp does not require any specialized equipment where the etch needs specific equipment.

I think the main decision maker is at what stage of the game do you want to mark your blade and how detailed do you want the mark.

I personally engrave my name into my blades and use a Stamp for the J.S.

I cannot say that any method is better than another, more a matter of preference. That is probably why I engrave my name -- I could not decide between etching and stamping <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

Brian

Hello,

It is pretty much a "Makers choice". Stamps move steel etching removes steel. To stamp your logo it's nice to use a press

Good advantages for etching your logo ( Fingerprint) into your knife.

Easily Modified to add extra size options to fit where your logo would look best on your knife. For instance, you may want one larger or smaller because of the size of the knife and where you are going to place it. Yes you can have several stamps but stencils work easily in whatever size you want.

Stencils can be more detailed ...say, deer antlers with your intials added. You can get a stamp like that but logo size would enter in for the stamp being able to be made with the detail.

The stencil can be removed by grinding not as deep as the stamp...if you want it removed.

The stencil is pretty much done as a final step. That allows knife changes before you add your logo.

I agree;

"I cannot say that any method is better than another, more a matter of preference "

Ernie

Joshua, I etch my blades. I have used a stamp, but I seem to get a cleaner mark with the etch. I also had a bad experience with a stamp and a damascus blade. They both have their merits, it just depends on which one you are more comfotable with. Ernie has a lot of really good information on his site concerning etching.

Brion

Joshua,

I have always stamped my work, but I have been giving some thought to electrochemical etching. To be honest, the only thing holding me back is that I haven't found a single "one-stop-shop" source for the machine, chemicals, AND stencils.

The reasons I'd like to explore electrochem are:

1) My stamp--a stylized "Z" symbol--is all fine linework, and with a stamp smaller than 1/4" square on both sides, it can be very difficult to achieve a complete, clean mark.

1a) If a clean mark is not achieved, it is nigh on impossible to accurately double-stamp to try and complete the image.

2) Sequence. As someone mentioned above, you can't stamp hardened steel. So unless you're leaving the stamp-bearing area (ricasso?) dead soft in your heat treat--which is inadvisable--you'll need to stamp your blade before you harden it. While it's true that a stamp can go deeper than an etch, you then have to polish your blade after heat treat, which can tend to wash out the mark to some extent.

3) A lesser factor is the flexibility of location that electrochem seems to allow. In order to get a good clean mark, you have to stamp on a flat, smooth, level area of the blade. And just due to the mechanics, that pretty much just leaves your ricasso as the only option. But not all blades have a ricasso. A japanese style tanto, for instance, has no ricasso and can have fairly steep bevels, depending on the style. On the other hand, I've seen makers etch their mark on the spine, tang, butt, bevel, guard, etc. My understanding is that as long as you can get your stencil to lay down on it, you can etch there.

So that's my two cents.

In the meantime, does anybody know of a good source for all the necessaries?

Zack

I normally stamp my forged knives and etch those that are stock removal.

Dale

I etch the knives that I've made so far and am very happy with it. I worked with Ernie Grospitch ( http://erniesknives.com/default.html) on my stencil and found his pricing and customer service to be very good. I know he carries other, if not all of the other require supplies as well.

Currently, a fellow bladesmith lets me use his electro chem marking machine, which I think was purchased from IMG (International Marking Group):

http://www.img-electromark.com/catalog/marking-units/ss211.php

USAKnifemaker.com also carries these supplies as well:

http://usaknifemaker.com/etching-supplies-c-53.html

Joshua (& Zack),

I tried stamping and etching, and for now I am etching. I like the depth and look of the stamp, but because it has to be performed before hardening, by the time I've quenched, tempered, ground, sanded, etc., sometimes the stamp gets washed out. So, I built my own etcher and it works great. Go to ChrisCrawfordKnives.com and in his "Tutorials" section he has very easy and detailed plans. Cost me about $60 total, looks pretty professional, and if you can make a knife, you can make this etcher. Then I got stencils from Ernie as well. I haven't found one source for everything, but once you have an etcher, all you need is the stencils and maybe the etch-ant. Maybe I'll start stamping again, I haven't decided yet... <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//blink.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':blink:' />

Thank you gentleman for all your input. It helped me out a lot. Keep up the good work.

I do both.... just depends on my mood. When I use my stamp, I do it in the forging process, with ricasso up to forging temp. Here are 2 basic examples-

Here is one that was "forge" stamped-

Here is one that was etched-