I messed up some handles with hidden tangs by eye-balling it when drilling for pin holes. Of course, I was using a hand drill and it sure looked square at the time of drilling... I've remedied that by using a friend's drill press but how do you do it with a tapered full tang? With a taper in the blade and tang there's not much anything square to keep the tang 90 degrees to the bit. Someone told me they just use some scrap to shim it and eye-ball it from there. I saw a picture where a guy used his file guide and clamped it to a vise on the drill press but my ricassos aren't that square, either... Anyone have a good way to do this or am I just over thinking things? I just know I can't stand it when I look down on my finished handle and my pins are all out of whack. Thanks for the help.
Jeremy
Jeremy Lindley, Apprentice Smith
Jeremy
Take a look at the video of Master Smith Hanford Miller that I posted on the ABS YouTube Channel. The jig and procedure that Hanford describes should help you with the process.
Click video below to play:
[media] http://www.youtube.c...iCYvopxI&sns=em [/media]
Dan Cassidy
Journeyman Smith
Send an email to Dan
Thanks-might have to try making one of those.
Jeremy
Jeremy Lindley, Apprentice Smith
Jeremy,
I had problems the same as you did a long time ago. I know some master smiths have gigs for centering the pins and they work well. Personally, I just add a few steps in the process on a full tang knife. I drill the tang prior to gluing on any handle material for each of the pins. I then glue on handle material to one side of the tang. I then first set the handle parallel in the milling vice and then drill through the holes predrilled in the tang. I also use a somewhat still rubber material under the handle material slab to help prevent tearing of the handle material as the drill bit finally cuts out of the handle slab. With some ivory or wood it does not take much presssure to get small fractures or splinters as the drill drives through the final couple of thousandths on the handle material. I then repeat the whole thing with opposite side of the handle.
Dan
Thank you for your input, Dan. I like your idea of the rubber to minimize splintering (I've had a few issues there....). Hopefully I'll do better my next time around <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//rolleyes.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':rolleyes:' /> .
Jeremy
Jeremy Lindley, Apprentice Smith
