Hi everybody!
My name is Ed, I am from Carroll County, Md., and I am relatively new to the ABS and knife-making. It's great to "meet" you all! My question is this: What is the best way to grind serpentine style blade bevels? I have a blade that I was "Free-forging" (no template or plans)and I forged it pretty close to final shape, including the bevels. When it came time to grind and refine the bevels, I realized it wasn't such an easy task. I am using limited tools as I am new to the craft, and I only have a 2"x42" belt grinder with a flat platten or slack belt option, as well as a 4-1/2" hand held grinder. Should I use files? What is the best way to get the grind even on both sides? Any help or info anyone can provide would be great...
Ed
Hi Ed. Are we talking about a Kris blade? If so, that is another can of worms. I have never done one. I do know that Jerry Lairson made one a while back and it was superb. Lots of hand filing and sanding. If I was to do one, I would expect to hand file slowly and carefully and then spend a lot of time on the curves using narrow backing sticks. If you want to take some photos along the way, we might get some benefit from it too. Thanks, Lin
Hi Lin,
Thanks for replying. It's definitely not a Kris blade. Maybe it doesn't even qualify as a serpentine blade, more of just a recurved. Please check out the attached photo. It's the recurve area that's stumping me. My grinding belts are 2" wide but the recurved area has a much smaller radius. The recurved section is about 3.5" long, and the over-all length of the blade including ricasso is about 8". This isn't even very good steel, I was just practicing forging on some "free" steel in an attempt to learn more, and it looks like I am going to learn more! Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the help!
Ed,
A recurve is not flat. It's just not. So, no matter what, you are going to have to eyeball it to some degree. This will take some draw filing most likely. I do it all the time. I have discovered that recurves require you to think a little diferent to get it "straight". There is really not much that is technically straight about them, but you know what I mean. Even from side to side with no flats spots or abruptness about it.
As for recommendations. I recommend you get good at making straight blades first. I sincerely believe this would be the best for anyone who is learning to grind. That way you can take full advantage of the flat platten. Lin
Lin,
Thanks for the great advice. I will focus on getting very good at making straight blades for a while...I kind of came to that conclusion myself once I started working on that recurve! Talk to you soon, and thanks again for the help!
Ed
Hello Ed. Some really good advice from Lin. The recurve blade may look straight, BUT, that recurve area is not as you have found out. I do grind mine, but very carefully, mainly by using varying finger pressure, then cleaning up with sanding blocks. You have to be very careful in the recurve area about the edge as it wants to get very thin a lot faster then the other areas. As Lin suggests get your regular blades good then progress to recurves. It is all about practice and learning your grinder. I wish you the best of luck.
Brion
Brion Tomberlin
Anvil Top Custom Knives
ABS Mastersmith
Hello Brion,
Very nice to "meet" you. Thanks for your advice. I am very greatful to be included in this forum. I can see it is going to be a great asset to me, and I hope that I can one day return the favor. I am getting some 1084 specifically to start "knocking out" some straight blades and focus on the basics for a while. Thnaks again, and I hope to talk to you again soon!
Ed
Ed,
Get a hold of the guys at Baltimore Knife and Sword. They are a bunch of good guys and should be able to offer some advice. They are on facebook as well.
