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New Member Guest
 

Interesting, I was always thinking about steel frames for a takedown.//

 
Posted : 12/08/2015 1:26 am
Posts: 0
New Member Guest
 

On the picture above is a handle on a machete with walnut and robinia,3 pins trough the tang and 3 in the wood. The tang is visible on the upper side, I don't know the name for those constructions.

 
Posted : 12/08/2015 1:37 am
Lin Rhea
Posts: 1563
Member
Topic starter
 

Christoph, I don't know the name of that construction but I have seen it. Mostly on kitchen cutlery. Interesting the options we have available when we use our imagination.

Yes Brion. Thanks for the reminder.

I use my drawings to refer to when finalizing the exact locations of tang, whether up or down as well as the pivot points for the fasteners. Above is a picture of how I determined where the hole for my coupling nut would be on a Camp Knife.

This also illustrates my take on tapered tangs.

Below are some additional drawings from my notebook.

Lin Rhea, ABS Mastersmith

[email="[email protected]"]Email me[/email]

www.rheaknives.com

 
Posted : 12/08/2015 7:40 am
Lin Rhea
Posts: 1563
Member
Topic starter
 

Thanks for the help Dan.

In the last two pictures, I have scribed a line above and below the handle drawing that is well past the outside of handle block. I then use these lines, when transferred to the block, to set the front and back angle cuts on the wood. After these cuts are made, I can mark the holes on the front and rear of the block.

Lin Rhea, ABS Mastersmith

[email="[email protected]"]Email me[/email]

www.rheaknives.com

 
Posted : 12/08/2015 9:24 am
DERRICK WULF
Posts: 133
Estimable Member Journeyman Bladesmith (5yr)
 

Lin,

Very slick design on that take-down! Even doing a non-take-down like that would make for an incredibly secure handle. Thanks for posting the pictures - what a great concept!

 
Posted : 15/08/2015 4:17 pm
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