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Bowie Design/distal Taper

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Posts: 209
Estimable Member Journeyman Bladesmith (5yr)
 

Evan

Sometimes when we concentrate on something different, we find that another problem comes up which may be the case for your dipe in the spine. It sounds like you are on the right track though of thinning down the tip.

When grinding, we have 2 angles that we are working with, the distal taper and the bevel of the blade. Having everything come together at the right places in smooth and flowing lines is something we strive for with every blade and can be a challenge at times.

How far you forge back the distal taper is more a factor of what you are comfortable with and your skills that you possess at the time. You will find that your skills continue to improve and how you make a knife today will be different from how you make a knife next year. As an example, if you forge the distal taper back close to the ricasso and make a misplaced blow to the ricasso, you may have to scrap the blade.

My point is do what works for you today with your skills today and the equipment you have now. As your shills and confidence improve, start modifying your proceedures to reflect the new skills.

See you in a couple of weeks

Brian

 
Posted : 27/01/2013 10:30 am
Lin Rhea
Posts: 1563
Member
 

Evan, Blade grinding is a game of very small tolerances. While you may soon be able to eyeball everything, you probably would do well to scribe a center line and grind according to that. You will develope your "eye" and soon see that by checking often, you'll be able to head off these problems. There is no shame in relying on measuring devices. That's how we check ourselves. But remember, if your grinding and something starts looking "off", it probably is off. By checking often you can catch it and correct it in time. Before the blade gets thinner than you intended, before it wont make a straight blade at all, etc.

Lin Rhea, ABS Mastersmith

[email="[email protected]"]Email me[/email]

www.rheaknives.com

 
Posted : 28/01/2013 8:11 am
Posts: 44
Member
Topic starter
 

|quoted:

Evan

Sometimes when we concentrate on something different, we find that another problem comes up which may be the case for your dipe in the spine. It sounds like you are on the right track though of thinning down the tip.

When grinding, we have 2 angles that we are working with, the distal taper and the bevel of the blade. Having everything come together at the right places in smooth and flowing lines is something we strive for with every blade and can be a challenge at times.

How far you forge back the distal taper is more a factor of what you are comfortable with and your skills that you possess at the time. You will find that your skills continue to improve and how you make a knife today will be different from how you make a knife next year. As an example, if you forge the distal taper back close to the ricasso and make a misplaced blow to the ricasso, you may have to scrap the blade.

My point is do what works for you today with your skills today and the equipment you have now. As your shills and confidence improve, start modifying your proceedures to reflect the new skills.

See you in a couple of weeks

Brian

That last portion you posted there is something that I will keep in mind and pay attention to greatly. I will just keep practicing and keep unleashing new challenges ahead, and modify accordingly at times. The world of bladesmithing holds many adventures and that is why I love doing it also. Thank you for this and the help you have provided; see you in Arkansas soon.

Evan

 
Posted : 28/01/2013 10:18 am
Posts: 44
Member
Topic starter
 

|quoted:

Evan, Blade grinding is a game of very small tolerances. While you may soon be able to eyeball everything, you probably would do well to scribe a center line and grind according to that. You will develope your "eye" and soon see that by checking often, you'll be able to head off these problems. There is no shame in relying on measuring devices. That's how we check ourselves. But remember, if your grinding and something starts looking "off", it probably is off. By checking often you can catch it and correct it in time. Before the blade gets thinner than you intended, before it wont make a straight blade at all, etc.

Thank you Lin, I've began to notice the small tolerances especially here lately. I am going to make an edge scribe today to help me out with grinding, thanks for that tip. Over time I realize the eye balling will come, but I definitely see the value of all instruments to help with bladesmithing and I'm not afraid to use them! haha Btw thanks to you I am officially attending the Haywood Community College Bladesmithing course. I didn't know if you could show me and my dad the Museum on Friday or not, but either way we will go see it Friday or sometime over the weekend when time allows.

Evan

 
Posted : 28/01/2013 10:33 am
Posts: 44
Member
Topic starter
 

By the way, what time does the Friday night reception begin that Brion mentioned?

 
Posted : 28/01/2013 10:35 am
Lin Rhea
Posts: 1563
Member
 

6:00 pm

Lin Rhea, ABS Mastersmith

[email="[email protected]"]Email me[/email]

www.rheaknives.com

 
Posted : 28/01/2013 1:53 pm
Posts: 44
Member
Topic starter
 

|quoted:

6:00 pm

Thank you Lin, I watched your video with you using the Little Johnny Forge and your hammering skills are excellent. I'm looking forward to meeting you in Little Rock soon and seeing your work!

Evan

 
Posted : 06/02/2013 3:20 pm
Lin Rhea
Posts: 1563
Member
 

I look forward to meeting you Evan.

Lin Rhea, ABS Mastersmith

[email="[email protected]"]Email me[/email]

www.rheaknives.com

 
Posted : 06/02/2013 8:34 pm
Lin Rhea
Posts: 1563
Member
 

Speaking of distal taper.............

If any of you guys get a chance, you should come to the museum and get a close look at Bowie Number One. This knife, as early as it is, is a good example of how distal taper is employed to impart balance to long and large blades.

Lin Rhea, ABS Mastersmith

[email="[email protected]"]Email me[/email]

www.rheaknives.com

 
Posted : 07/02/2013 9:18 am
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