Ed, a number of people make a thumb ramp in front of the guard using a checkering file. I would think you could do that then slightly round the spine to smooth any rough areas. Ask the customer if he would prefer texture or smooth. I can see benefits to both. I think I would slightly round the spine anyhow for comfort.

Brion

Hello Ed,

@ 52 yrs old, I've held a Hunting and a Fur-Harvesters license every year, bar none, since I was 16 yrs old.

Like virtually every knife we make, I can say with confidence, there is no one "do-it-all" design. Skinning knives included.

In regards to the spine in this case, as Brion stated, a knife with a smooth, nice radius on top is my personal preference as well.

Breaking all sharp edges, with exception of course, to the cutting edge.

My concern for the customers knife would be more along the lines the type critters he'll be skinning.

Does he want a Pelter ? For skinning Mink, Muskrats, Coon, Fisher, Marten, Cats & Canines, etc. ?

Or a knife for skinning Beaver & Otter ?

IMO, the Pelter & the Beaver/Otter blade being 2 completely different knives.

For the record, even though I've made a few, I don't like, or use, what some folks call a Beaver Knife, aka a Bullnose skinner, or a Halibut Knife.

My personal skinning knives need a point <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

Maybe he wants strictly a Big Game Skinner, Whitetails, Bear, Mulies, Elk, etc. ?

For all the above mentioned critters, I use 2 different knives. I clean skin my Beaver & Otter and for me, that blade doubles as my Big Game Skinning Knife.

Both of my personal skinning knives do however share some features, in that both have a sharp pointy point, (redundant-redundant-redundant) and canvas micarta handles, finished to a 180-220 grit finish. i.e. "suggestions for a comfortable yet "grippy" texture or finish?

My Pelter is 52100 steel @ ~60-61 HRC that finished at ~.045 thin, with full convex ground to zero edge. It's a superb slicer !

My Big Game/Beaver/Otter Knife was ~ 5/32" S60V steel @ ~ 58-59 HRC w/very thin hollow ground bevels.

But it's a real drag when the edge needs to be touched up.

I like to use a simple stone in my fur shed, and for me, the S60V doesn't respond well at all to the stone.

I've got a new one I'm making, sharing space on my bench at this very moment.

My new Skinner made from the same 3/4" diameter 52100 stock I used when forging my Pelter.

In regards to the gimping (or is it jimping ?) If it's done with a checkering type file, and he's going to be skinning coons, they'll likely become plugged up & useless, because of the nature of the very greasy fat coons tend to have between the flesh and leather. Bears are the same.

IMO they'll be more a pain in the butt when it comes to cleaning the knife afterwards.

For Whitetails the same applies, but will be more a waxy like tallow.

IMO, if your customer does it all, and wants a "generic skinner" - compromise will need to be made.

Just say'in .

Either that - or ask if he's interested in 2 knives <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//biggrin.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' />

As always, these are my opinions, and mine alone - as the saying goes ...... YMMV

That's pretty much all I got Ed

<img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//cool.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='B)' />

Brion,

Thanks so much for the info / help <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//biggrin.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' /> We are going with the smooth with the edges "broken" or slightly rounded. If he decides later he wants some texture, I can rework it (some).

David,

Wow...that's an awful lot of info! This guy is a deer hunter, mostly. As I mentioned above, we're going with a smooth rounded spine. By the way, I'd love to see some pics of those knives you mentioned <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//cool.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='B)' />

All,

Just a note of interest here: Being that this was going to be a non-traditional design and that the person requesting it wanted it to serve a specific purpose, I first sketched it out (several different designs). Once he decided on a sketch, I then created an aluminum template (with wood handle), and had him hold it in his hand before we proceeded with the work.

Sounds like a good plan Ed. I do like the sketching the design out for the customer and letting them decide. Thats the way I usually do it unless they give me free reign. The template is a great idea. Be sure to let us see the finished knife.

Brion

|quoted:

David,

Wow...that's an awful lot of info! This guy is a deer hunter, mostly. As I mentioned above, we're going with a smooth rounded spine. By the way, I'd love to see some pics of those knives you mentioned <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//cool.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='B)' />

Hi Ed, I'm sorry <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//unsure.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':unsure:' /> I did get a bit carried away there, kind of drifting off course.

In regards to the knives I mentioned, I've attached pics of the ~.045, 52100 pelter, along with the 52100 Skinner I'm currently putting together.

As you can see, there's a lot of work yet to do on the skinner. Forging the tang down, rough hollow grinding, heat treat, finish grinding, handling, etc.

The S60V skinner I mentioned is merely a re-handled Steve Greene Improved Skinner. I picked it up ~ 20 yrs ago, 6 yrs before I started making my own knives. At that time Steve was using S60V. I think he uses either S90V or S30V now. It's a nice skinner design, but like I said, I much prefer high carbon steel over the high alloy, really high V materials.

The little 52100 pelter shown has put up more fur than I can remember catching.

I also slipped in a pic of an ~5,000 B.C.E. Copper Culture Knife I found with my metal detector about a mile from our farm (I've found many).

It's a truly "ancient skinner".

Next to it is my version of that same knife I forged in 1084, crudely handled in Tag Alder, wrapped tight with sinew. Made how I imagined the "Ancients" may have finished it.

Again, sorry for the thread hi-jack.

And now the pics you asked to see ......

Thanks for the pics, David!

By the way, you can never supply too much info., so keep it coming <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//cool.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='B)' />

Those are nice blades...I'm wondering how you forge the round bar out so the blade comes out on one side. When I try it, it comes out and both sides and then I have to fight it back over to one side, which starts to deform the "plunge" at the bar. Any suggestions?