That's nice looking. I really like it.

Thanks Lin. Its wrought iron from the Globe grain elevator that was built in 1887

This is a another Harpoon clip Bowie I have been working on but this has a Hamon in W2 tool steel. It is a clayless Hamon meaning I didn't use any clay. I think it came out ok. I was hoping to get more activity with the clayless approach but it is what it is

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This is a another Harpoon clip Bowie I have been working on but this has a Hamon in W2 tool steel. It is a clayless Hamon meaning I didn't use any clay. I think it came out ok. I was hoping to get more activity with the clayless approach but it is what it is

The reason a clayed hamon can produce more activity is because of the insulating pattern that you can paint on the blade. If you apply the clay in a pattern rather than a straight line that will change the rate of coolinge under and around and in between the clay pattern. There is a great thread in these forums where MS John White laid out his process. I pretty much follow this now.

http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/index.php?/topic/429-hamons-topic-for-november-2011/page__hl__hamon

I hear what you are saying. I have seen some of Nick wheeler knives with clayless Hamons and they have insane activity but it might be because he also use's Salt pots to do it. I don't have a salt pot though.

Aubrey Thank you again for all your help.(Aubrey saw on Instagram I was having trouble with polishing and etching and he helped me out)

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There is a great thread in these forums where MS John White laid out his process. I pretty much follow this now.

http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/index.php?/topic/429-hamons-topic-for-november-2011/page__hl__hamon

I copied those directions (including the photos) from John White and created an Adobe pdf file. I have this on my Google drive for anyone who wants to download it.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Y8X4r3wskCYO_DYxSGIQ8WmWT0Wf-T2v

Been Working on this Handle for awhile. Its etched wrought iron, 2 black vulcanized fiber spacers, 1 copper spacer, and Tasmanian Blackwood.

This is the first time that I used alignment pins in the handle so I could build it off the knife. Let me tell you something. I will NEVER EVER glue the hole knife together and then shape the handle. It is much easier to finish shaping everything and then glue it together.

I also believe in given credit where credit is do and I just wanted thank Karl Andersen because I was watching 1 of his youtube video where he said something like "It doesn't make sense to glue everything together and then work on shaping the handle and guard". The last 2 times I did a hidden tang by gluing everything together and then work on it, I got scratch's in the ricasso and the face of the guard which is like impossible to fix when its all glued together.

Anyway here are some pics.

Looks great Jason! I saw this on Instagram and was hoping you'd share it here too. I know the video you are talking about by Karl and it makes since once you hear it. Plus, with Karl's experience, I dont think you can go wrong listening to just about anything he says!

Thanks Andy.

Jason,

I have been finishing handles off the blade for years. Hancock taught me to do it that way. How are you holding the assembly together while working? I have a post somewhere around here where I showed how to use a wood or drywall screw and a washer to keep everything tight, but I cannot seem to locate any of my posts that are older than about a year.

Wait a minute, I found it. It's about halfway down page 1.

http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/index.php?/topic/3212-hidden-tang-guard-fit-up/page__p__22316__hl__drywall%20screw__fromsearch__1&#entry22316

Thanks for link Joshua. The way I did it I used a scrap piece wood. I drilled a hole threw it and transfer the line up pin holes from the guard into the scrap wood and then took a bolt and put it threw the scrap piece of wood and the guard and bolted it all together. Then I shaped the guard. Once I was finished with the guard I put it on the real handle and then shaped the real handle. Also the alignment pins were so tight in the guard and real handle it just stayed together.

I have working on a commission (blade process here) and the handle is coming along.

Here are some shots from the last few days. I used a piece of the bar for a spacer. Here is the handle with guard and spacer package finished to 800 and buffed.

Here is the PW spacer etched.

The frame is .040" 410 SS and I spent today putting the vine file work on it.

Joshua I really like the file work. I have yet to do file work on a knife. Looking forward to the end result.

Yesterday was HT day. I have to get some kitchen knives ready for the show next month.

I think that final glue up is the most stressful phase of the knife making process.