Here are a couple blades I worked on yesterday hand sanding a 9 1/2 inch (first integral chef)damascus integral chef knife and a 6 inch damascus santoku and I got my makers mark on them. I used the disc to 320 on the santoku but used belts to 220 and 400 grit cork on the integral and ended up having to go back down to 150 hand sanding before moving on a pain at 61 rc. Today I thought I would try something else new and worked on a mammoth tooth spacer for the chef knife, it cracked pretty quick then I superglued it to some thin plywood and milled out the slot with a carbide bit. That's were I am now the picture of the chef knife is at 150.

|quoted:

Here are a couple blades I worked on yesterday hand sanding a 9 1/2 inch (first integral chef)damascus integral chef knife and a 6 inch damascus santoku and I got my makers mark on them. I used the disc to 320 on the santoku but used belts to 220 and 400 grit cork on the integral and ended up having to go back down to 150 hand sanding before moving on a pain at 61 rc. Today I thought I would try something else new and worked on a mammoth tooth spacer for the chef knife, it cracked pretty quick then I superglued it to some thin plywood and milled out the slot with a carbide bit. That's were I am now the picture of the chef knife is at 150.

Nice looking stuff Gilbert. Are you going to the AABA meet this Saturday? You could bring some for the Show & Tell table. I'd like to see them in person.

I took a piece of 1" O-1 drill rod

And forged this out of it.

I also made two attempts at forging an axe. It was a very hot day in the shop.

Thanks Josh I can't make it this weekend I have plans. That bowie looks good.

Gilbert

[sizes=4]I had to do a little more forging on that Bowie. I like it much better now.

|quoted:

Yep. My saying that I take full credit for is, "When you're sanding out scratches - you're not sanding scratches. You're sanding everything that is NOT a scratch." A scratch is a void - an absence of material. You can't sand NOTHING. If you have a "scratch" from a previous belt grinding episode, do NOT!! try to sand it out. In essence, you have to bring EVERYTHING else that is NOT the scratch DOWN to a level equal to the bottom of the scratch for the "scratch" to go away.

That's a waste of time.

Go back to the grinder to the NEXT belt grit and grind everything down to that level and it's gone - instantly.

You just saved hours of time and aggravation and a whole bunch of sand paper.

Karl- this is IMMENSELY helpful information. It's one of those "it's obvious now that you know it" things.

|quoted:

Aubrey, have you ever considered getting a 9 inch disc grinder? I have been using one (variable speed, reversible) for as long as I have been making blades and I wouldn't give it up. I have tried a lot of different finish grinding/hand sanding techniques and have settled on this: I Take the blade down to 220 on the 2x72, move to 220 on the disc to flatten and straighten. Go to 320 by hand inline with the blade. Go to 320 on the disc. Go to 400 by hand inline with the blade, and so on. Back and forth from disc to hand successively with finer grits. The disc gets the blade truly flat and straight. By changing directions at roughly 90 degrees between hand and disc, I can really see that the previous grits lines have been removed.

Joshua- I have considered getting a disc grinder for many months and will be picking one up soon. I have decided to cancel my trip to BladeShow2019 and invest the money into the shop, which includes a disc grinder. As far as tools go that contribute to a consistent production environment, what other items would you recommend?

|quoted:

Joshua- I have considered getting a disc grinder for many months and will be picking one up soon. I have decided to cancel my trip to BladeShow2019 and invest the money into the shop, which includes a disc grinder. As far as tools go that contribute to a consistent production environment, what other items would you recommend?

I'm sure others will have suggestions as well, and I would really enjoy additional answers to this question. Here is what comes to mind for me.

Really good task lighting. A pair of magnifying glasses or optivisors. A bunch of good files in various sizes. Mill bastard, smooth mill, a small set of files for detail work, etc. A carbide faced file jig for setting the plunge lines and guard shoulders. I also made a bunch of work-rests for my 2x72 for specific functions. There are two camps in the grinding technique debate: freehand and work-rest grinders. I am in the work-rest camp unless I am doing a particular style of blade that doesn't have plunge cuts and a ricasso. If you don't already have one, a HT oven (Evenheat or Paragon) The HT oven isn't really necessary unless you are working with high alloys, Working with simpler steels like 1080, 1084, and maybe even 1095, you can get by with a baffle tube in the forge and your electric home oven. YMMV. I am sure Kevin has much to say on that subject and please, take his word over mine. He's probably forgotten more about heat treatment than I will ever know. The only other suggestion I can make to aid you in consistent production is to make templates of the knife you plan to make. Make a template for the blade and forge to the template. Make a template for the handle and shape to the template. Consistency is replication. Forging is about imposing your will and focusing your intent. Design, intend, forge, create. In that order.

The only other things you need, you cannot buy. That is bullheaded determination and a mindset that embraces failure as a learning experience.

The 1 thing I could add to Joshua's list is a surface plate and a Height gauge with a carbide scribe

WARNING! Graphic content.

Well, it wasn't today, it was yesterday and another great reminder that safety is #1 priority. Wire wheels are IMO the most dangerous tool in the shop. They also have a way of throwing a small wire at precisely the correct angle that it will squeeze through that small gap between your dust mask and your safety glasses. I bought a full face shield today.

Ouch! You are right about safety being #1, I'm just sorry you had to (re)learn by experience. I'll keep this in the back of my mind then next time I say, "I'm only going to be at the (insert tool of choice) for a minute."

It only takes a split second for rogue piece of debris to go where it shouldn't and ruin your day. Hope your eye heals well!

Yep. Do things long enough and the odds are something will happen.

Those things are like bullets.

Josh sorry that happened. I hope everything is ok. There's a lot of dangerous stuff in our shops thank you for the reminder.

Gilbert McCann

I am working on a Bowie/fighter with a Clay less Hamon. I am working on the Handle right now. Its some crazy looking Tasmanian Blackwood.

I just put the first coat of oil on it . Here is a pic of it. It looks even better in person

The Guard is wrought iron That I forged down from 1" round stock. Its my first time working with Wrought Iron. I don't know if I should etch it in acid or fire etch with a torch or what should do.

That's looking pretty darn spiffy Jason.

David Lisch once told me how he did his fire etch on wrought, and he got great texture, but I cannot remember what he said. I might have it written down, somewhere......

All I remember was he did it in the forge (can't remember how hot he let it get), for a couple of heats and cold blued it afterward.

Thanks Joshua.

I etched the guard, it looks pretty good to me. I will post some pic's. I etched it in ferric and then melted paste wax on it.