Hello Travis, one of the first places I would start is Don Fogg's website.

Don Fogg

Check out the bladesmithing link then go to techniques, making a bowie, for pictures of the process. Also you can do a google search for W-2 heat treating specifications.

As for applying the satanite,start out with a fairly simple pattern, and apply the satanite in a thin layer, 1/8" thick. See Don's pictorial. You also want the satanite to be about the consistency of cake icing. I normally go to a 120 grit belt finish on the blade with the edge about a dimes thickness. I do not quench in water, because the thin sections we work with are very prone to crack as you experienced. I use a fast quench oil ( parks 50), see if you can find a good fast quench oil, or use mineral oil heated to 120-130 degrees F.

For W-2 I heat to 1470 F to 1500 F hold for three to five minutes then quench. I check for warps immediately after when the blade is still around 600 F to 800 F and straighten if needed, then back in the oil until cool enough to handle. Then I go to the grinder and clean up the blade with a 120 grit belt. This also allows me to check the hamon and see if I like it, or do I need to re heat treat the blade. Immediately after that it is into the tempering oven at 450 F for one hour, allow to cool to room temp then again at 450 for another hour. Then it is on to finishing.

I hope this helps.

Brion

Brion,

Thats just the information I was looking for. Thanks very much for thr reply. I figured that was the issue with the water quench. I will give it a try with oil this next time.

You mention going to the grinder to check the hamon. Is this is al that is needed to see the pattern?

Travis

Hello Travis. The grinder at 120 grit will just give an indication of what the hamon will look like. I play light over the blade to see the hamon. What really brings the hamon out is all the hand rubbing( up to at least 1000 grit), light etching( I use ferric chloride), then more polishing with fine abrasive powders until I get the look I want. A long and lengthy process, but worth it. There is a thread on Blade forums by Nick Wheeler that deals with how he polishes his blades. It is entitled "Why blades with hamons cost so much" or something similar, very informative.

Good luck and have fun.

Brion

Gday Brion,

Dont want to over complicate things here but do you fully coat the blade 1st with a very thin layer of Satanite and then apply the thicker coat to acheive the hamon?? Id heard that this will help break up the vapour jacket on the initial quench.

Cheers Bruce

Hello Bruce, good to hear from you. I do not coat the entire blade at the moment. I have done it both ways, but using the fast quench oil it did not seem to make an appreciable difference. Now if you are going to try water or brine quenching that is another matter. If I feel really lucky and do a water quench with say 1060, then yes I will coat the entire blade with a light wash then add the thicker layer for the design. That is just the way I do it. Some may do it differently.

Best regards

Brion