Notifications
Clear all

Rust Prevention After Sanding

12 Posts
7 Users
0 Reactions
3,448 Views
Posts: 181
Estimable Member Apprentice Bladesmith (5yr)
Topic starter
 

I have been trying to make batches of knives between 5 and 10 knives at a time. I am a hobbyist currently and have a full time job so batches are more convenient but there is some time from grinding to final buffing. Recently I started to use Windex while I sand to help keep dust down, lubrication and extending the life of my sand paper. I have started to do this after heat treat on the current batch. I am using 1084 steel from Aldo. After I complete a side I cover with blue painters tape to protect the work I have done. I then do the other side and tape. Once finished I put into a Tupperware and start putting together how it will be glued up with handle material, pins, etc. I noticed that some of my knives are now starting to rust. I have caught one beginning to rust under the tape prior to glue up and yesterday found one that was heavily pitted after handle glue up and now I have to re-sand the blade with a handle attached. Talk about being disappointed.

So I could use some advise here. I know that sanded high carbon steel is at greater risk of oxidation so how should I protect the finish. Do I skip the Windex and use a lubrication oil? I can see this getting messy and would be concerned that it would negatively impact a good glue up. Should I stay away from a batch process and just do one knife at a time not leaving enough time for rust to occur?

Scott

 
Posted : 27/07/2014 8:16 am
Posts: 775
Noble Member Apprentice Bladesmith
 

Scott,

There are a couple of things that may help. One is eliminate the tape. Try giving the blade a coat of car wax instead to prevent the rusting. Just clean it off well before glueing with windex.

Also, the Tupper Ware may be a part of the problem. It's possible that it was trapping moisture next to the blades. I would try letting them set in a dry, open air place rather than in a sealed container.

I don't know if this will help but certainly worth a try.

Gary

 
Posted : 27/07/2014 10:20 am
Posts: 0
New Member Guest
 

Scott,

I use Mobile One synthetic 5W40 oil to sand with. When done I clean it with a degreaser and followed with clear water. Then coat it with clear shoe wax until ready to finish it. I clean the waxy finish off before finishing the knife.

 
Posted : 27/07/2014 11:38 am
Posts: 307
Member
 

Yup, that makes for a bad day. I'm with Mr. Mulkey-lose the tape. I'm also a hobbyist and after I couldn't successfully fit up a guard (to my expectations) I decided to take a break from a hunter for a while and come back to it later. I put the green frog tape (doesn't leave adhesive residue) on the blade and put it in the top of a lined tool box in the shop. When I took it out a while later and removed the tape, I found rust and pitting. I live in SW Idaho and there's not what you'd call a high amount of humidity. I figured either there was some moisture on the blade when I put the tape on or some kind of moisture from the tape itself over time rusted the blade. Either way, the tape managed to trap that moisture right against the blade.

When I hand sand, I only put tape on the side of the blade that first reaches final finish grit. Just in case there are bits of grit it could rub against when I sand the second side. I also use some tape when working on the shoulders or other parts when I want to ensure I don't get stray scratches. But after it's done, I leave the tape off. If you want to keep going with the batches of knives, I'd just change how you store them. You could also make a loose blue paper towel sheath for the knives for temporary protection.

Sorry you had a bad surprise on a nearly finished knife... Hopefully you can get it passable and that work won't go to waste. Good luck to you.

Jeremy

Jeremy Lindley, Apprentice Smith

 
Posted : 27/07/2014 11:39 am
BrionTomberlin
Posts: 1675
Member
 

Scott, I use Wd40 as the lubricant. When I finish with one side I tape it for protection then rub the other side. When the blade is sanded and finished, I wipe the blade down with kleenex and then a heavy coat of WD40. Then it goes in a zipper case. No tape. There are some tapes that have something in the adhesive that will pit and rust your blade, almost like a weak acid. The only time I put the tape on is for protection when hand sanding, guard, and handle work. Tape comes off after each step and blade gets wiped down and back in the case.

Brion

Brion Tomberlin

Anvil Top Custom Knives

ABS Mastersmith

 
Posted : 27/07/2014 12:27 pm
Posts: 307
Member
 

Mr. Tomberlin-

Would you mind sharing what cases you use and where you get them? I've debated getting some and see various knife supply places sell them. I recently heard of "Bill's Cases" (pretty sure that's what they were called) and that they are very good quality? Never having had one before, are there better or worse ones out there?

And sorry to the original poster-I certainly don't want to hijack this thread. Just trying to better my storage processes, too...

Jeremy

Jeremy Lindley, Apprentice Smith

 
Posted : 27/07/2014 1:41 pm
Robert Wright
Posts: 425
Member
 

Scott,

After reading your post, I went out to the shop and checked two knives that have been taped up since before Christmas. Other projects came up, so they were on the back burner. I removed the tape and there was no rust. They were stored in a storage room where they humidity is lower than the shop area. I'm with Gary on the Tupperware being responsible. I use another method I was taught back in the spring. After oiling the knife down, I wrap the blade in paper towel, and then wrap some painter's tape around the paper towel. Kinda a disposable storage sleve.

Bob

Jeremy,

I get my zipper cases from Pop's. Reasonable and well made.

 
Posted : 27/07/2014 3:11 pm
BrionTomberlin
Posts: 1675
Member
 

Jeremy, my cases are Bills cases or ones from Riverside Machine ( Uncle Al).

Brion

Brion Tomberlin

Anvil Top Custom Knives

ABS Mastersmith

 
Posted : 27/07/2014 7:09 pm
Posts: 181
Estimable Member Apprentice Bladesmith (5yr)
Topic starter
 

Well thank you all for the good information. I will get the tape off and get them out of the Tupperware. I like the idea of putting some WD40 on the blades. I live in Houston Texas and the humidity is pretty high here most days. I did store the knives in the garage so I will also bring them into the house which should lower the humidity a little more. Looks like I have to visit Uncle Al too.

Scott

 
Posted : 27/07/2014 7:34 pm
Posts: 5
Member
 

|quoted:

I have been trying to make batches of knives between 5 and 10 knives at a time. I am a hobbyist currently and have a full time job so batches are more convenient but there is some time from grinding to final buffing. Recently I started to use Windex while I sand to help keep dust down, lubrication and extending the life of my sand paper. I have started to do this after heat treat on the current batch. I am using 1084 steel from Aldo. After I complete a side I cover with blue painters tape to protect the work I have done. I then do the other side and tape. Once finished I put into a Tupperware and start putting together how it will be glued up with handle material, pins, etc. I noticed that some of my knives are now starting to rust. I have caught one beginning to rust under the tape prior to glue up and yesterday found one that was heavily pitted after handle glue up and now I have to re-sand the blade with a handle attached. Talk about being disappointed.

So I could use some advise here. I know that sanded high carbon steel is at greater risk of oxidation so how should I protect the finish. Do I skip the Windex and use a lubrication oil? I can see this getting messy and would be concerned that it would negatively impact a good glue up. Should I stay away from a batch process and just do one knife at a time not leaving enough time for rust to occur?

Scott

 
Posted : 30/07/2014 8:50 pm
Posts: 5
Member
 

Hi Scott , any light oils work good , but they are a lubricants. I have been using de oderized mineral spirits in a small oil can . You can get it in quarts at H-D . It lets the paper cut and keeps the paper from loading up to much and doesn't give off any oder . I am with

Brian T . about the blue tape I use it a lot but only when the blade is dry and remove it afterward and clean and dry the blade. i have a tool drawer from a rollaway box mounted under my bench dedicated for projects batch knives during construction.

batch making knives is the mot efficient way to do it , if you use epoxy clean with acetone or mek before assembly . Good luck it is very rewarding to build craftmanship type knives .

t

t

t

 
Posted : 30/07/2014 9:09 pm
Posts: 181
Estimable Member Apprentice Bladesmith (5yr)
Topic starter
 

Thank you Steven. I do have mineral spirits on my bench and never thought about it for cutting or lubrication. I will also give that a try. I also agree with your statements on batch making. Seems to be the most efficient way to make them.

Scott

 
Posted : 31/07/2014 7:50 am
Share: