Actually Ed, I have found that keeping the clay a consistent thickness works better. Even with 1084. The trick is to get the blade heated evenly throughout. If it gets too hot in areas the hamon goes up above the clay as in your picture. But experiment with different thicknesses and see what works for you.

Brion

While were are on the subject of Hamons, I've got a question. How thick do you mix the clay, and what is the best way to apply it to the blade? Actually that is two questions.

Thanks!

Bob

Robert, I usually mix it to the consistency of cake icing or close. I use a paintbrush to apply it. Small artists brush. Just a cheap one that you can buy in bulk packs at the hobby store.

Brion

Brion,

Thanks for the information. I'll give it a try soon.

Bob

Great info all!

|quoted:

Well, Brion called and told me to get off my duff and add something, so here goes.

I'll confine my comments to W-2, since it's what I use, and it's now readily available. I'm forging down big rounds from Don Hanson, but Aldo Bruno, ( www.njsteelbaron.com ) has W-2 in bar stock. Not only does W-2 show great hamon activity, but it makes a fine working blade as well.

John

Thanks for the detailed working instructions. This is extremely helpful. Just a quick question: Would this process work as well for W-1?

Joshua, the processes should work just fine for W1. W2 has more vanadium, but the carbon contents and other alloying elements like manganese are very similar.

Brion