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My most used file is my No. 49 Nicholson Cabinet Maker's Rasp.

I have used that file to shape the handles on 95% of all knives I've made since I got it maybe 15 years ago.

And I'm still using it.

I have one of these as well and since I saw Karl using it in a WIP here, it has definitely become the go-to tool for handle shaping. I also bought this little Pana-vice to hold the handles while working on them.

I also use Grobet....or old "new" stock files... which I find on line. They're better quality as has been stated.

I use golf balls like Ed Caffrey and store them on the wall in a rack to avoid banging them together in a drawer or in a tool box.

My uncle was a master machinist...back when tool and die was a big thing here in the states. He shared with me that soapstone should be used on files to keep the slivers of metal from between the teeth....I asked about chalk and he said 'No WAY!' use soapstone. He was right...chalk will still allow metal to stay in the file...and it also attracts moisture which is the enemy of sharp files.

So my suggestion is buy some soapstone from a supply house and use it... you can get it from http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32712&cat=1,250,43298

I use lots of files. Even now that I have a mill, I still go back to them. I guess I'm going to be the exception to the rule in that some of my files come from a local hardware store. I just happen to live in a town that used to do a lot of manufacturing and the one store I visit most often has a dwindling stock of NOS Simonds USA files. Best bet is just to learn what files are good and which ones are junk and watch wherever you are. You never know what might appear on a shelf somewhere. Almost all of the rest of the hundreds of files I have and use are NOS Nicholson USA files. Literally everything from an 18" flat bastard to a fist full of #0 cut 3" and rifflers files as well as some 1/16" round parallel machine files and #4 cut small flats. Some of these are well over 50 years old. I'm not just good at it, but instead I fight with reminding myself if I ever get in a hurry that these files only cut in one direction ( and one throws me a curve once in a while because it cuts backward from where the tang is) and that has so far kept me from wearing out files prematurely. I store mine in several small racks with holes that sit around my vise. I use them for everything from guards to filework to tweaking frame handles and handle shapes and anything else that requires material to be removed.

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I use lots of files. Even now that I have a mill, I still go back to them. I guess I'm going to be the exception to the rule in that some of my files come from a local hardware store. I just happen to live in a town that used to do a lot of manufacturing and the one store I visit most often has a dwindling stock of NOS Simonds USA files. Best bet is just to learn what files are good and which ones are junk and watch wherever you are. You never know what might appear on a shelf somewhere. Almost all of the rest of the hundreds of files I have and use are NOS Nicholson USA files. Literally everything from an 18" flat bastard to a fist full of #0 cut 3" and rifflers files as well as some 1/16" round parallel machine files and #4 cut small flats. Some of these are well over 50 years old. I'm not just good at it, but instead I fight with reminding myself if I ever get in a hurry that these files only cut in one direction ( and one throws me a curve once in a while because it cuts backward from where the tang is) and that has so far kept me from wearing out files prematurely. I store mine in several small racks with holes that sit around my vise. I use them for everything from guards to filework to tweaking frame handles and handle shapes and anything else that requires material to be removed.

Great subject .and a pet peeve of mine... I do mainly period work ( 18-19th centuries) so my final finish is normally a filed finish with little sanding . That being said I use files a lot ... I like to use large bastard cut files to hawg off material in the beginning and work my way down to a smooth cut ... I also use dozens of sizes and cuts . Like others I have free standing racks for storage , basically a top ,bottom with side. I drill holes in the top to hold files. For needle files I use a piece of wood with holes drilled in it and just stick the files point down in the holes. The main reason for this post is to mention having good files re sharpened ,it is much less expensive than a new file ( if you can find one ) and can be done a few times. I think an average file is $3-6.00 to sharpen. I use Save edge Co. In Ohio but there are others. As mentioned above the quality of files is horrible today ,it has gone steadily down hill for the last ten years or so. Even expensive brands have suffered. The one we have found that is OK is Nicholson black diamond brand in the green package.I save all the American Nicoleson and Simone's files I have to re sharpen I also use Grobet but they aren't what they were a few years ago. I buy NOS whenever I find them.

FILES:

What size? What pattern? Who What Where? I use files and stones from Falcon Tool Co, Traverse City, MI 800-321-8512. They have all types, cuts, and patterns, safe edge pillar types, whatever you need! Great quality Swiss and American patterns with quantity discounts. website is: falcontool.com

They also have stones of all types and tooling, file cards and collet-type handles for those tiny needle files, that is if you run out of wine corks which is what I use. Great old fashioned company with great service.

For your old files or used yard sale files there is a company in Paramount, CA called Boggs tool, boggstool.com 562-634-1081. they sharpen dull files and sell quality new files as well.

Storing files... use a tool roll or a specific drawer with separated compartments or layer them with shop wipes, one file will dull another as will magnets, and yes soapstone, welders markers, for a coating to stop the pinning or stuck material in the grooves.

I've heard that Muriatic acid will tune up an old file but the vapor from that process will corrode every carbon steel item in your shop so do it outside. Hope This helps!