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You seemed ok for supper at Outback Steak House before. Maybe you got a little puny afterwards. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /> BTW, I still have the knife we took first and second with at the first Haywood hammer-in. How's my teddy bear doing? I admit, you beat me fair and square that time.

LOL you know I was kidding. See the <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//wink.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />? You should also know that if you beat me you earned it.

Your Teddy Bear misses you and asked just the other day when you were coming to visit.

........teddy bears,,,,,,,,,,misses you...... HEY! You guys are going to start crying if you dont cut it out! <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//rolleyes.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':rolleyes:' />

<img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

Very good Lin. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//laugh.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':lol:' /> . I can see the teddy bear asking for Uncle Bill.

I also go along with Jim in that I am leaning towards a more centered point and more weight. As Jim says my knives have been too light. I do like the horse stall mat for handles as it provides great grip and shock absorbtion. However it does lack esthetic qualities, it ain't pretty. Yes you are right Lin, I do have beefy tangs under the rubber, why take chances.

I also believe as Jim states, test, test, test. Before you compete with a knife put it and you through the paces to make sure you have it right. That is a big reason for the cutting demos, so we can put out the best blade we can and know it will serve it's owner well and for a long time.

Brion

For myself, I would look to designing a knife that is as balanced in all aspects of competition as I could manage. While you may not carry a specific advantage for any one aspect of a competition, you have no distinct disadvantage either. To me, the design of the blade is the primary aspect you have to look at for competition. You can have a perfectly heat treated knife, but if the design is not what you need for the competition then you have defeated yourself before you ever left the house.

Cheyenne, blade design is an important factor. Some designs cut well with a variety of cuts while some only work well on certain things. The kukri comes to mind. Works great for chopping but not so well for other cuts like ping pong balls or straws. I prefer a bowie design with a good length of straight edge for cuts like ping pong balls or straws or dowells.

Another important design feature is your handle. It has to be comfortable, no hot spots in your hand while cutting. An oval design works better so that it will align your edge. Also some type of birds head or something similar at the end of the handle for retention while cutting. I prefer a palm swell on mine. The handle is very important.

There are a lot of things to think about when designing a cutting knife and the best way is to try different ideas at your shop, such as blade styles, handle styles, weight, edge geometry, etc. Test them out on your own and see what works best for you and your style of knife use.

Brion

The tip elevation will determine to some extent the range of duties the knife will be able to perform. Brion touched on it. With the tip being midway or lower will allow a straight cutting edge to travel farther out. This will bite rope better in the area of blade where it is cut. The cleaver type knives have taken this to an extreme. It chops well and cuts rope good but sacrifices the ability to poke. Basically no tip. Like you said Cheyenne, a balance of qualities are what you want. But achieving that takes some testing.

Here's a tip. Watch how Jim Crowell and others who have been in competitions a lot make their knives and if you the chance cut something with their knife.

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The tip elevation will determine to some extent the range of duties the knife will be able to perform. Brion touched on it. With the tip being midway or lower will allow a straight cutting edge to travel farther out. This will bite rope better in the area of blade where it is cut. The cleaver type knives have taken this to an extreme. It chops well and cuts rope good but sacrifices the ability to poke. Basically no tip. Like you said Cheyenne, a balance of qualities are what you want. But achieving that takes some testing.

Here's a tip. Watch how Jim Crowell and others who have been in competitions a lot make their knives and if you the chance cut something with their knife.

As big as Jim is, I may have to swing it with both hands. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

|quoted:

Here's a tip. Watch how Jim Crowell and others who have been in competitions a lot make their knives and if you the chance cut something with their knife.

But I can't swing a LEFT HANDED KNIFE! <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//biggrin.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' /> <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//biggrin.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' /> <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//biggrin.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' /> Just kidding. I'm looking forward to his shop tour and will do my best to be there. [I'll bet that the old Teddy Bear King makes a mean deer chili.]

Gary

Just stand on the opposite side so the knife is going in the right direction. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//wink.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />

Jim's big knives cut very well. Of course having arms like that helps, and years of experience.

I was just wondering for everyone reading this topic. What are your favorite steels for these type of knives? and why? I know that we have already had some choices such as Ray's and Bob's 52100 or Adam's W-2, but I would like to hear from some others. As I said I prefer 9260 or 5160H with a drawn spine. They are tough, forge fairly well, and I know the heat treat by heart. Bill Moran liked 9260 also from what I have heard. So what do you use?

I would also like to hear more on handle design from our members. How has your handle evolved?

Just some thoughts.

Brion

I am in the process of making one at this time and am using W2 for the blade.

The biggest problem that I had with my previous handle was that it wanted to slide forward during the 2x4 chop so I am giving it a bit of a hawk's bill on the end and a palm swell. I am using horsestall mat and a beefy stick tang.

Gary

Here's a blade that I just H/T'ed and I would appreciate your comments. This is W2 that was normalized three times, soaked at 1475 for ten minutes and quenched in preheated Park's 50. I am currently tempering it at 425 (which I will repeat for three two hour sessions) and plan to draw the spine back with a torch.

Any thoughts or recommended changes (other than the false edge being off center, oops) from you would be apppreciated.

Thanks,

Gary