The basic forging area:

Karl, how do you like that mini mill? I've been thinking about one for some time, mainly for slotting guards and drilling accurate holes.

Thanks, Justin

I have used that mill on virtually every knife I've made since '99 or 2000.

I'd be lost without it.

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Karl, how do you like that mini mill? I've been thinking about one for some time, mainly for slotting guards and drilling accurate holes.

Thanks, Justin

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I went through this a few years back when building a new forging shop. As far as size goes I think the majority of shops are garage sized. Much smaller than this can be used but may be inconvenient as you may have to be moving tools as you use them. If I were to build one I don't believe that I would want anything much smaller.

Anvil size is often dictated by what is available or affordable. There is an old adage that your anvil should weigh 40 times what your largest hammer does. One can use smaller than this which simply means more work as a light anvil doesn't move the steel as quickly. Mine weighs 144 lbs and has worked pretty well for me. I would love having one that was heavier but I don't feel it necessary as I do most of the heavy work these days with a press.

A couple of thoughts for those who are planning to build their shop is that you can never have too many electrical outlets or windows. I put both 110 & 220 outlets every 8" in the walls of my shop. I am also a big fan of natural light and used as many windows as was practical in the walls of the shop that I built. There are only a couple that I open and the remainder are solely for light. Also, plan to make the doorway large enough for bringing large tools in or out.

Another thing that I put into mine was a two foot exhaust fan in the wall next to the forge. This is solely for removing fumes and could also be done with a hood above the forge with a fan built into it. I use a gas forge and ALWAYS have the fan running with the door open when forging. SAFETY FIRST!

If you are planning on building your first shop remember to plan ahead as you will most certainly add additional tools is the future and it is nice to have the room and electrical service to handle them (including 220v service). I don't have three phase 220 which would be nice but not critical to have.

When planning a new shop I would also plan to have plenty of lighting both natural & electric. It's much easier to build this originally then to have to add more later. Before building a shop it will help you tremendously to do extra planning preemptively. Try to visualize working in it and every contingency that might pop up as far as tools needed, utilities, work space & lighting. Visit as many existing shops as you can. See what you like & dislike about them.

Most of us will have a limited budget so plan what is critical to start with and what you would like to add when the funds permit. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /> If you are like the majority of us there will always be another tool that you will eventually want to add to the shop.

Building a new shop is an exciting time and I envy anyone who is going through it.

Gary

I will throw my two cents in here. Most of my bladesmithing life was in something close to a double car garage. Then about 10 years ago I moved way out in the country and built a shop. My shop is 24 x 48. I walled off the end into two heated and air conditioned 12 x 12 rooms. In one I have all my finish tools and two buffers. In the other 12 x 12 I have my grinders, a milling machine, and a surface grinder. In the rest of the shop is all the forging equipment which includes two gas forges, a ten foot rack of tongs, two anvils, press, tig, stick welder, gas welder, band saws (wood and metal), screw press, three salt tanks, chop saw, steel racks, flip charts (draw everything out), two large post vices, a 24 x24 inch 200 lb steel perfectly flat sanding surface, and a 306 lb Peter Wright anvil. Now I consider my vices (3) the tools I actually use the most along with files and sand paper.

Lighting is essential. I have a 3 ft high by 6 ft wide window over my primary table and lots of lights. Investing in lights is essential. If you cannot see it (scratches, wobbles, etc.), you cannot clean it up. I could make knives with a forge, an anvil, a hammer, a vice, files, and sand paper. The rest can make it better.

I would also say that if I had one grinder it would be a variable speed disc grinder with reversable direction. My biggest problem is getting rid of the heat from the forge. From May through most of October that is my biggest problem. Ventilation is a good thing.

Dan

Thanks for all the great information. I am in the process of setting up my forging are in 1/4 of a 2 car garage with the grinding area in the other 1/4 area. I have an Atlas Mini Forge and a 70+ anvil (don't know the made). I am waiting to get a stump cut for mounting the anvil. I should have everything set up and operational by the end of may.

What type and shape of tongs should I get? I will be making small knives at first (9"). What is the best shape of hammer (or hammers) to use?

I have 1/2 of a 2 car garage to use for the "dirty" part of knifemaking. I put up pegboard on all the walls and it really extends my storage space. Here is a link to my current shop set-up.

http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/Goldsmithy/slideshow/New%20shop

The guy that is getting my stump cuts down trees for a living. I told him that I liked 'burls' and he said he would bring me some. The first week was a small burl (about 5lbs). It was really nice, so I told him that was what I wanted. The next week he turns up with a 300lb red oak burl. You could have knocked me over with a feather <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /> Anyone want some red oak burl---come and get it.

I really like the PVC rotating belt hanger idea. Great way to keep the current belts handy.

Dan, I finally went to the local recycling center and got a big 110V squirrel cage furnace fan and put it up in the ceiling over the forge area.

Put a timer switch on it.

It's amazing how much hot air that thing removes from the room.

Cost me 20 bucks.

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My biggest problem is getting rid of the heat from the forge. From May through most of October that is my biggest problem. Ventilation is a good thing.

Dan

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Thanks for all the great information. I am in the process of setting up my forging are in 1/4 of a 2 car garage with the grinding area in the other 1/4 area. I have an Atlas Mini Forge and a 70+ anvil (don't know the made). I am waiting to get a stump cut for mounting the anvil. I should have everything set up and operational by the end of may.

What type and shape of tongs should I get? I will be making small knives at first (9"). What is the best shape of hammer (or hammers) to use?

I have 1/2 of a 2 car garage to use for the "dirty" part of knifemaking. I put up pegboard on all the walls and it really extends my storage space. Here is a link to my current shop set-up.

http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/Goldsmithy/slideshow/New%20shop

The guy that is getting my stump cuts down trees for a living. I told him that I liked 'burls' and he said he would bring me some. The first week was a small burl (about 5lbs). It was really nice, so I told him that was what I wanted. The next week he turns up with a 300lb red oak burl. You could have knocked me over with a feather <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /> Anyone want some red oak burl---come and get it.

Teddy, nice looking set up you have there. I too have portions of the garage set up for various tools and work areas. And by the way, nice get on the giant burl <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />. As for tongs, I am lacking in variety there. I can tell you what I do have and use most and what I plan on getting.

What tongs you primarily use can depend upon what your blade stock is. I pretty much use bar stock, so "box jaw" style tongs of various widths are what I use most. One jaw is wider than the other and the edges of it are turned up towards the other jaw that now fits inside of the edges. Now the bar sits inside those raised edges, keeping it from turning in different directions. When I have the blade forged out and want to work on the tang, I can put the blade in the box part of the jaws and effectively hold it securely while hammering out the tang. I hope that makes some level of sense... If you were using round stock to forge with, you'd want different tongs to accommodate that. I've heard good things about some of the wolf jaw tongs and would like to get a set of those to try out, too.

I'm sure there are some with much more experience and advice for you than me. But, I can say with certainty-tongs are WAY better than channel lock pliers... Since making the switch, I haven't had anymore glowing orange sticks of spinning steel flying around the garage <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />.

Jeremy

Good lighting is critical in a knife shop. My main shop lights are 48 inch fluorescent fixtures. These fixtures hold four, 32 watt T-8 bulbs. The fixtures have wrap around diffuser covers to spread the light. I bought the light fixtures at Lowes for about $55 each.

I installed daylight color temperature bulbs in these fixtures. Ironically in my area, I bought the fixtures from Lowes, but had to go to Home Depot to buy the daylight bulbs. Neither store had both the fixtures and the bulbs that I wanted.

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I would also say that if I had one grinder it would be a variable speed disc grinder with reversable direction. My biggest problem is getting rid of the heat from the forge. From May through most of October that is my biggest problem. Ventilation is a good thing.

Dan

Hello Dan,

Would you have a flat disc or a 1 degree taper disc on that "One Grinder"?

Mike

Edit: Our forge shop has great ventilation... glass broken out of the 2'x2' window, 1/2" to 1" cracks all over the place... =]