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I've learned a helluva lot in the last couple weeks diving into bladesmithing. I've asked many questions here in this forum. I've practiced by making a few blades. I've read a few books: $50 Knife Shop by Wayne Goddard, Knife Engineering by Dr. Larrin Thomas, and The Razor Edge of Sharpening by John Jurani.
If you'll allow, I'd love to dispense 10 key discoveries I've made about bladesmithing after reading these books and asking questions in this group.
1) There is no hobby and/or profession with more old wives' tales and bullshit advice than bladesmithing. As an avid skills collector, I can say this with the utmost confidence.
2) Many smiths do not agree on basic terminology. Example: Ask 10 smiths what a primary edge and a secondary edge is, and you'll get 10 different answers. Even the authors of the books in the picture here do not agree.
3) Introducing science and/or metallurgy to your practice is an excellent way to separate yourself from the nonsense, but be sure not to dismiss the wisdom and experience of professionals who do not use collegiate/scientific terms. They know and can teach you an awful lot, even if they can't tell you exactly _why_ something works. Augment their lessons with your own research, if you are an academically minded individual.
4) The American Bladesmith Society (ABS) is a fantastic organization to join. I've found resource after resource, and smith after smith willing to answer questions and share knowledge. If you are in the pursuit of excellence, taking the time to hone your craft in preparation for becoming a journeyman is a built-in goal you can use to guide you along your path.
5) Heat treating is critical. Don't trust that the metal you obtain has been annealed properly, even if it says so on the order form. Learn to normalize and anneal yourself. Not only will this give you a far greater understanding and appreciation of the metal you're using, but it will yield much more predictable results in your craft.
6) Edge geometry is everything when designing your blades. Learning how to thin your piece appropriately for slicing and chopping blades is something that can truly only come with time. Primary edge (bevel) knowledge and/or examples aren't easy to find, but in general try between 3 - 5 degrees. Your secondary edge (bevel/cutting edge) will change dramatically depending on the function of your knife.
7) Edge thickness is where your secondary edge (bevel/cutting edge) begins. Spine thickness is the width at the very top of your blade. Get in the habit of measuring these and jotting them down as you make knives. You will find some designs work better than others for their intended purpose.
8 ) Never let someone tell you that your Mr. Volcano isn't good enough. Fire heats steel. Find a way to measure the temperature of the steel. Follow the heat treat data sheets for your steel type, and you're on your way. Also - in my case, I was told that a wood-fire forge was a dumb idea. Turns out it's incredible. I cannot recommend Whitlox Wood-fire forges enough. Personally, I will never go back to gas, but that is simply preference. USE WHAT YOU HAVE.
9) Expensive gear does NOT make you a better smith. Tools fail. Temperature sensors in heating ovens lose accuracy, resulting in sub-optimal thermal cycling treatment. Power hammers and forge presses are made of moving parts, some of which malfunction, under-perform, or yield unpredictable results. Understand the reasons behind what you're doing and try to get a little better with each piece. Arguably the greatest bladesmith who ever lived (Masamune) had little more than fire, steel, anvils, and hammers.
10) Don't be afraid to ask questions! I've found bladesmiths are very kind folk, and want to help. Be patient (but critical!) with the supplied advice. Some of it isn't worth much, but once in a while you'll get some gold.
This topic was modified 3 years ago by Joshua King
Posted : 24/03/2022 12:44 pm
Roby (Rob) Schafer reacted