https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rim5rO1iAC0&feature=youtu.be
Here you go something new to me anyway, that I have been playing with to get more meat around the dropped choil and still forge close to shape. By shouldering before pinching off for the chiol. this lets me pull the choil down straighter, then use a sliding blow to upset the materiel back inline with the plunge giving me more options in aligning everything in the grind.
It is all about finding ways to control the movement of material, and control your process, rather than letting it control you.
MP
You make it look so easy. Nice video and thanks for sharing.
Scott
Thank you MP, I like your style.
|quoted:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rim5rO1iAC0&feature=youtu.be
Here you go something new to me anyway, that I have been playing with to get more meat around the dropped choil and still forge close to shape. By shouldering before pinching off for the chiol. this lets me pull the choil down straighter, then use a sliding blow to upset the materiel back inline with the plunge giving me more options in aligning everything in the grind.
It is all about finding ways to control the movement of material, and control your process, rather than letting it control you.
MP
Thanks for putting that up. Great video and great editing. Man can you swing a hammer! I saw you using the edge of the hammer face to fuller the tang material. Have you used the horn much for drawing? I would think with the hammer speed you get out of that 4lb hammer the horn would get some work done for you. Cheers
I have never been a fan of drawing on the horn, most anvils are to loud and bounce around to much, my 450lb I am using in the video, also has such a wide horn it is almost flat on top, so much so it would be of minimal help in drawing. when moving larger stock by hand I will use the edge of the anvil as well of the edge of the hammer to really isolate the blow, that works very well to get the material moving.
MP