You could easily get all kinds of answers to this question. But, I think (at least in part) the steel you choose should depend upon the heat treating. As in, are you going to be doing it yourself and what equipment do you have? If so, a steel that is relatively easy for a beginner to heat treat is a great way to go. I started with the old stand by, 5160. It's not the "coolest" steel out there, but many knives have been made with it and it is really forgiving. Another that many people start on is 1080 and is a good steel, as well.

If it were me, I'd stay away from 52100, 1095, and some of the others. They make great knives, but things start getting finicky as you go along. Heck, I'm still stuck at 5160 and 1080 (with occasional 15n20 for some Damascus). And one last piece of advice. I'd start with known steel, not files, rasps, junkyard leaf springs, etc. Before buying steel, that's how I started. And there are makers who do very well with recycled steels. But, for a beginner, the "unknown" just adds one more aspect to have to figure out. With a good, known steel, you can worry about good grinds, edge geometry, and all the other stuff. Trust me-even with known steel, I can find a way to mess up the heat treat process and that's without having to guess like on a mystery file <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//wink.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />.

Good luck and happy forging.

Jeremy

ETA: I saw the below post after my response and wanted to add a note about his suggestion of 1075. I haven't used any myself, but I've talked with John Doyle who has used a fair amount from Aldo and he really likes it. And, with the lower Manganese, you could always try some of the hamon stuff later on and still be using the same steel. Either way, can't go wrong with what a guy like Mr. Tomberlin suggests <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />.

Scott I would suggest contacting Aldo Bruno at New Jersey Steel Baron and getting some 1084 or 1075. Both are good steels, make excellent blades, and are easy to heat treat. Plus they are not that expensive. New Jersey Steel Baron

Good luck

Brion

5160 is a really nice start out metal. Easy to forge, easy to get in the form of leaf springs form cars. Other than that start out with old dull files. You won't be able to get perfect heat treating but they'll both give you all the practice you need before you make really good blades.

I have spent 2.5 years working with Aldo's 1084. My last trip to NC both Bill Wiggins and MS Warren suggested that I try some 1075. I have only made 2 knives from it and I really like that steel. Try some of Aldo's 1075, I find it nice to work and the heat treat isn't hard to do at all.

Thanks guys that's a good start for me. I apprieciate all the help. What size steel should I order? Thank you sincerly scott

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Thanks guys that's a good start for me. I apprieciate all the help. What size steel should I order? Thank you sincerly scott

If you are going to order one size for all size knives then a good size to order would be 1/4" x 1 1/2" x 4'.

Gary

Scott, I usually use 1"x1/4" for hunters. Then 11/4"x1/4" for small bowies and fighters. Large knives are as Gary says 11/2"x1/4" or thicker.

Brion

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Scott, I usually use 1"x1/4" for hunters. Then 11/4"x1/4" for small bowies and fighters. Large knives are as Gary says 11/2"x1/4" or thicker.

Brion

A little late here, these are the sizes I use too. I'll add that I would try 1075. It's probably my favorite steel and if I had to choose just one for everything from big knives to small......I think 1075 would be it.

I forge a lot of hunters from 1075 and I'm very pleased with how well it cuts and the edges hold up. I think a lot of times steels recommended for 'beginners' get a bad rap as being inferior. 1075 and 1084 might not be the absolute kings of edge holding.............but I wonder how much difference the vast majority of knife users can tell during real world use. Properly heat treated, 1075 holds an edge PLENTY good enough for my tastes.

I'll keep using it long after I'm all done being a beginner. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//biggrin.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' />

Thanks john i apprieciate the input and that goes for all the response from everyone

To add to what John and others have said, a properly heat treated blade out of a simple "beginner" steel will be far superior to a poorly heat treated blade of "super steel." Depending on your equipment and methods, you may, in fact, have little choice in the matter.

If you plan on heat-treating using just your forge, quenching in canola oil, and tempering in your kitchen oven, you pretty much have to stick to the simpler alloys like 1075 and 1084. Higher alloy steels like L6 or 52100 require very precise temperature control, soak times, atmosphere control, and specialized quenching media to reach their potential. They can make a great knife, but only if the maker has the equipment and experience necessary to give them exactly what they need.

It's almost like choosing between Kim Kardashian and the pretty, sweet girl next door. They might both make a fine date, but unless you're wearing a tailored Armani suit and driving a Maybach, you probably needn't bother with that ultra high-maintenance rich girl from L.A. The 1075 is just as pretty, perhaps a little more reliable, and won't run off on you when you pull up in your old F250 and a pair of Wranglers.

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It's almost like choosing between Kim Kardashian and the pretty, sweet girl next door. They might both make a fine date, but unless you're wearing a tailored Armani suit and driving a Maybach, you probably needn't bother with that ultra high-maintenance rich girl from L.A. The 1075 is just as pretty, perhaps a little more reliable, and won't run off on you when you pull up in your old F250 and a pair of Wranglers.

Quite possibly, the best thing written on any forum............ever. That made me laugh. Good stuff. I love it. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

That's to funny Gary,good stuff! I got the little johnnie forge going today. And I love it but then again I wouldn't know cause I never had one before. But it brought the steel up to temp.i used 1084 stock removal.blades heated to nonmagnetic,.and used the kitchen oven 425 2hrs. Two times thanks for all the help from everyone I apprieciate it

Scott,

Something that I found with the Little Johnny was if you place a piece of 1" rebar sideways directly below the intake manifold that it will diffuse the heat better than without.

Have fun & good forging.

Gary

Thanks Gary. You mean put the rebar on the floor of the forge or in the actual. Intake?