Hi folks...
I found these old pics and I thought that maybe could be interested.
Start cleaning surfaces. The steel in the center is SAE 1095 and the sides 420mov.
Then I cover the edges with electric welding, is very important to cover as best as possible.
Heat to the 2372 F
Forged <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmiths.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//rolleyes.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':rolleyes:' />
Clean and check your results...
then if all is well just forge the blade, always checking where the core...
For this small knife used 316 steel and SAE 1095 core.
I hope you like it and try it out
Mariano Gugliotta
Mariano,
Was the small knife forged from the bar you started out with or from another bar?? Just wondering about getting the bolster that large when using the thinner billet. Do you think the SS series of steel makes any difference when forge welding the SS to high carbon? I think the 300 series would be more rust proof on a blade and give it a bit more "Wow" factor. They do look good. I looked at Ed Caffrey's folder and it also looks very good.
Thanks for posting the pics, I appreciate it.
Hi Ray!
The knife was forged from other san mai. For that one I star with a 3 layers of 1/32 (8mm) ich one.
I prefer the 420, because is more tough than the 316. But in a small blade it does not make a big difference.
there is some "trick" with the transfer of carbon between the center and sides that produces more 4... steel than in 3 .... but I could not really study it in depth yet.
Saludos
Mariano
Mariano Gugliotta
Mariano
Why was it important to make sure the edges were covered in the weld? (Never having forged welded stainless, it may be a stupid question...)
Kevin
Kevin-
I could be wrong (and will hopefully be corrected if so) but I think the complete coverage on the edges by the welding is for a dry weld. In other words, sealing the edges keeps the oxygen out so you don't get the scale forming between layers that flux helps take care of when forge welding it. M.S. Ed Caffrey does the dry weld method on some of his stuff and is a great and helpful resource for info on that.
Jeremy
Jeremy Lindley, Apprentice Smith
Jeremy
You are correct. The process of welding the seams shut is for dry welding. The billet can be wrapped in SS heat treat foil with successful results as well. I have only welded the seams myself and not tried the foil.
For more information, see this discussion on this topic. http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/index.php?/topic/158-stainless-laminate/page__p__906__fromsearch__1&#entry90 6">link
Brian
Guys,
Thanks. That makes sense...
Kevin
