I thought I would post this in the "Forging Techniques" section in case anyone is interested in the way I forged it or why I even attempted it. Of course, this technique is not for everyone. But it is a way I can show myself, at least, that a bowie can be forged without any other materials and used effectively. We all know a rat tail patch knife can be held and used without too much worry about wear on the hand or developing hot spots. But can a Bowie, especially a big knife, be made by forging alone and be usable without inflicting discomfort to the user? I say yes. Of course certain considerations have to be made and attended to in order to meet the above requirements.

I will first, show a few pictures of the development of this Bowie. Some of you have seen it elsewhere. I call it X-Rhea Bowie because you can see through it. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /> Afterward, I will show my thinking about how it can work with the hand... or not, whichever your view might be. I intend to make another soon and can get more photos especially of the top, bottom, and pommel views and in the hand pictures. I'm not trying to sell this idea on anyone. I am just exploring the idea of a knife and it's handle broken down to the bare necessities. Is this 2 dimensional? Or a cross between 2 and 3 dimensional? How much does the hand and the mind "fill in" where material is not?

Now some of the rough steps to get there.

I hot cut two ears from the rearward into the ricasso area to peel off some material. There has to be some rounding at the bottom of the cuts so as not to get them to burn deeper.

I start positioning the parts toward their intended places. Here the tang is moving toward the top away from center. I stick the guard lug in the hardy hole to strike the material without hurting the lug.

A little closer.

Now the handle band is drawn and profiled in what will be the top view and folded. I fold the bottom of the pommel bend first back 180 degrees and come to forge welding temps and flux the bend and give it a light weld, then proceed with rest of the bends.

Here is a picture of the finished knife.

I did not succeed at my first attempt and reserve the right to mess up another at any time. But, with practice and planning I should be able to make another. I took notes and did some tracing as well.

This knife will undergo some testing as is and we'll see how it works. I hope that a lot of you get to hold it to know for yourself whether it would work.