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Integral Bolster Forging

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Don Andrade
Posts: 9
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As far as width in relation to initial stock-size, it really depends on the thickness of the blade you desire and the type of final edge geometry.

I like the .75" stuff to learn on because you get a bit more elbow-room so to speak to work the learning curve. Don Fogg was doing some sweet gent's knives out of .50" stuff and I often diminish my .75" down to around .50"+or- square and go from there....so certainly you can use square stock.

IF using square you can always octagonalize it first before you start the 'pinch' and the drawing out of the blade. This gives some nice reference lines to keep your forging going in the right direction and straight along the way.....straightness is the biggest deal when it comes to integrals and ultimately they take patience and practice, probably a lot like knitting:)

Enjoy:)

-DON:)

"with malice toward none; with charity for all...." Lincoln

 
Posted : 05/08/2011 6:30 pm
Posts: 115
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|quoted:

Wow. Some days this forum makes me want to take up knitting...

I have always loved integral knives and have to try one (when the heat breaks...it's 106 right now and I work in a non AC garage). May I ask what diameter of round stock one starts from for a specific blade width? Does anyone hasve a rule of thumb? And also couldn't you do this from a thicker square stock too?

Thanks

Kevin

Kevin,

I don't know, I kind of like forging when it's smoking hot... always makes me feel like I've really been doing something... and makes stepping out into the clear air afterwards a cool and refreshing experience... =]

Square stock makes into octagon or rectangular integrals easier for me than starting with round.

First integral I did I calculated area of the round then figured a blade spine and blade depth that I felt was proportionally "right". Like a 1/2" round integral section has an area of 0.1963 sq.in. Around 1/8" - 3/16" spine looks "right neighborhood" to me. Area and volume of a 1/2" round 1" long are same number... one in sq.in., one in cu.in. One inch of 1/2" round is a rectangle 1" x 1/8" x 1.57". One inch of 1/2" round is a rectangle 1" x 3/16" x 1.05". If the blade depth of the 3/16" spine is 3/4"... the length goes 1.4". For the same 3/4" blade depth, a 1/8" spine goes to 2.10" length.

In the end, it depends on what your eye tells you, in relation to what the knife purpose and stoutness requirements are. Person can rough in distal and edge taper, tang, and integral-length volume-calcs (or guesses) and come pretty close to "actual" metal needed... handy for doing them out of damascus and avoiding ground-to-shape look if a person starts from a preconceived notion.

That's just me jumping through my own hoops... lots of ways to see it. Like in the Brazilian Blade Smith's Integral Knife link I put up earlier in the thread... start with 1" round and make anything you can imagine... =].

Mike

PS... took me so long to say this on my computer, Don said it easier... =]

As a person insists they have a right to deny others their individual freedoms, they acknowledge those others have the right to deny them theirs...

 
Posted : 05/08/2011 7:07 pm
Posts: 0
New Member Guest
 

Thanks Gents,

That all makes sense. As soon as the heat breaks...

Kevin

 
Posted : 05/08/2011 9:52 pm
Posts: 115
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|quoted:

Thanks Gents,

That all makes sense. As soon as the heat breaks...

Kevin

Oh you wuss!!!... little heat stroke never hurt anyone... =]

Mike

As a person insists they have a right to deny others their individual freedoms, they acknowledge those others have the right to deny them theirs...

 
Posted : 05/08/2011 9:54 pm
Posts: 0
New Member Guest
 

I'm new here. I'm from South Carolina. Anyway, Iv'e done knives and a few small swords, but Iv'e never done an integral. I think if you wanted to square up your bolsters while in forge you could just make a custom monkey tool to do it. Monkey tools help in making tenons like for rod iron gates and such. You could just make your own custom one to slide down over your knives tangs in order to square up your bolster. You use monkey tools on hot metal. Just my two cents.

 
Posted : 04/02/2012 10:11 pm
Admin_DJC305
Posts: 1999
Member
 

Jason

Welcome to the American Bladesmith Society today and the ABS Forum.

Thank you for your advice. I will have to try it.

Dan Cassidy
Journeyman Smith
Send an email to Dan

 
Posted : 04/02/2012 10:25 pm
Lin Rhea
Posts: 1563
Member
 

Jason,

That's the way I do sometimes. I have some blacksmith training and have learned to adapt my knife forging to that.

Lin Rhea, ABS Mastersmith

[email="[email protected]"]Email me[/email]

www.rheaknives.com

 
Posted : 07/02/2012 8:42 am
Posts: 0
New Member Guest
 

Thanks yall. I look forward to everything I can learn from the forum and the society. Yeah I'm hoping to be a full time Sculptor/Blacksmith/Bladesmith; in no particular order by this time next year.

 
Posted : 11/02/2012 11:59 pm
Posts: 2
Member
 

Hi, I just joined the ABS site as A youth. I'm working on my first knife so I hope to be able to post it here soon to see what you guy's think <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//wink.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />. I was wondering if anybody had some info on the whole apprentice smith deal & Advancement?

Thanks, Angus

 
Posted : 17/02/2012 8:33 pm
Posts: 26
Member
 

Welcome Angus! Can't wait to see your knife. There is info on the process of the ABS on the website under the "ABS" that explains a lot. But, hang on a bit and I'm sure you'll be getting a warm welcome from a bunch of great guys more connected than me.

T.

 
Posted : 17/02/2012 11:00 pm
Admin_DJC305
Posts: 1999
Member
 

Angus,

Welcome to the American Bladesmith Society and the ABS Forum! I see your question and Sally forwarded your email from tonight to me with additional questions about being an ABS Apprentice Smith. I will send you an email with answers to your questions and links to the testing and judging rules in the ABS.

Dan Cassidy
Journeyman Smith
Send an email to Dan

 
Posted : 17/02/2012 11:24 pm
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