Hello,
I've never worked with W2 before, so I'm new to the stuff. I'm working with 1/8in stock, on a 7 inch blade chef's knife. It will probably be 0.100 by the time I get it flat.
What edge thickness should I be aiming for before applying clay to hamone? I plan on using parks 50.
Thanks,
Nick
If it were me, I'd do an initial grind only up about maybe 3/4" and leave about .040" at the edge.
When I do a thin knife like this I will quench the blade for 10 seconds or less to get the steel down to about 400 degrees when the blade is still smoking - no in flames! - when I remove it from the oil. This is approx. MS - martensite start.
Then I have some aluminum angles in my post vise and I quickly crank the blade straight - no messing around.
But - you're going to have clay on your blade, which, if one was to clamp it like I do, may actually induce wonky stuff. I don't know.
But for sure, I've been doing hamons for nearly 20 years in full thickness steel. Leaving your steel full thickness at 1/8" will still result in efficient hamon-ing. And also help to minimize warping.
You may need to just jump in and find out what you don't know.
I go to 120 grit for heat treat with a thickness of between 30-40 thousandths at the edge. As Karl said a thin blade like a chefs knife can get wonky in the quench and aluminum plates will help. I also do straightening during the second tempering cycle with a straightening jig with the blade clamped up in it while in the tempering oven, if needed. One important thing is to get that blade in the tempering oven that is already up to temp asap. W2 quenched in parks 50 can crack if not put in the tempering oven quickly.
Brion
All 3 pages of it. Trust me on this, you will not regret it.
“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”
Thanks Joshua. Interesting read
