Part Two

When bending a piece, even when heated, there is a thing happening that will have to be dealt with, especially in our case. It's called the anticlastic curve. In this photo, you can see it.

You can see the edges where the file has made contact but the trench down the middle is untouched by the flat file. This the effect on an outside curve. An inside curve, logically, would have just the opposite, a ridge in the middle that would have to be filed down to make a flat cross section on the face. I use a round file and use a draw file motion. So as you might discern, there will be some serious clean up along the way. This is something you have to accept and come to terms with to make an S guard that, in my opinion, is interesting. I personally don't like a flat S guard or one that has sharp bent places in it.

A note on the anticlastic curve. In a lot of cases in blacksmithing, the anticlastic curve is useful not only as a design feature but in function. in the following photo, the wagon wheel hub band (with the notch), has a visible anticlastic curve. This flare looks pretty cool but also it helps fit the band onto the hub.

Thanks Lin. These little things, that make perfect sense in hindsight, have sure fought me in the past. I appreciate you taking the time to document and share this.

Chris

Lin--Thanks for taking the time to do this. I know that posts like this are time consuming to put together but the photos help a lot with being able to absorb the technique. [I learn a little more each time that I view one of these.]

Gary

Great w.i.p. Lin! What size stock did you start with, and how deep did you drift, one side only,both sides? Are you using a very thin drift,like 1/8"?

Thanks for sharing!

Bob

Thanks guys.

Robert, I use a quick made rectangular shaped slitter. Looks like a cold chisel. I just go in about 2/3 of the way leaving enough in the front to be sturdy but easy to fit to the tang and ricasso.

As far as stock, I think it was 3/8 X 1 inch 416 stainless. I pay little attention to the actual starting stock as long as it is big enough. I usually forge that into something that will set me up for the detailed forging. For instance, I think I cut the 3/8 X 1 into a 3/8 X 1 X 1 square and got it hot and forged the corners in a little forming an elongated octagon. From there I pulled and forged the material out to the rough forged guard.

Thanks Lin, that was very helpful. Great job!

Bob

Thanks Lin. That is a great demonstration and explanation. There are so many ways to do this style of guard.

BTW-I especially like the choice/mix of textures you are using (polished sides, satin face) It really makes the guard a vibrant accent.

This is wonderful!! I was thinking about making an S guard but really didn't know how to do it.

Thanks Lin

Thanks!

Cal, as Joshua says, there are many ways to make an S guard. The challenge it presents is on multiple levels. Even flat stock, gracefully curved into an S shape has it's challenges. I was wanting to sculpt the handle side which added to the confusion. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

One thing I may not have made real clear in the above steps. After the initial forging, all heats, including the bends and normalizing (subcritical), can be performed at temperatures below where it would create any heavy scale. That's why I do a preliminary finish, getting rid of the forge scale early in the fitting stages. Light scale cleans up relatively easy after the curves are in.

Thanks Lin. Now how about an S guard with half penny ends.

Dale

Dale, You would follow the principles of this process, but may have to change the order of the steps.

Do your high heat operation early and get rid of the heavy scale. Then light heats, if any are needed, and clean up. Always start over sized to allow for each subsequent reduction due to clean up or straightening.

I have been doing this with 416 stainless but again, the principles are the same.

As opposed to an oval plate guard, making a more complicated S guard does take more time and more heats, more of just about everything. This might run over into the next day or even two days adding substantially to the over all amount of shop time on a given knife. But in my way of thinking it is well worth it.

Lin,

At what heat (color) do you stop forging the 416 in order to avoid fractures?

Gary

Gary,

Good question. I stay in the low yellow to high red. The more reduction per hammer blow, the higher heat I use. After you've split the ends of a guard forging because you let it get below color, you learn to discipline yourself.

Working the material at these high heats means that later in the process you will need to normalize the piece or you will risk air hardening.

Thanks Lin. Good information.