Thanks so much for this, Lin. You were kind enough to talk with me over the phone about some of this a little while back. Seeing the pictures with the description is really helpful. I got a fair bit of 80crv2, but sadly the thickest I ordered was 1/4". I was thinking an entire head made of that would be nice and the poll could be hardened enough to be pretty tough. I don't know how well 80crv2 welds to itself, but I've heard it should be decent. You think it would work to forge weld a piece to the back to thicken it there for a poll?

Oh, and one last question-does your bit go all the way to the eye or stop short of that?

Jeremy

Jeremy,

You certainly can weld another layer or two to the poll. These can be dressed to look better in the folding and boat tail steps. Of course clean welds which have been nicely scarfed look better. I hardly ever will make the entire head from high carbon unless I change the technique, using larger stock that can be slit and drifted.

The bit can get close to the eye but it's not necessary for it to go to the eye and may even interfere with the drifting later if part of it sticks into the eye. Remember, the bit adds volume to the blade. You can judge the bit stock according to what it will take for your blade to be large enough.

I recommend if you are just making your first axe or hawk to use extra length in the work piece. I use 6 inches. So use 6-1/2 or 7 and trim it later. This way, if you start a little off center, you can continue on and trim the long jaw to match later.

There are several ways to accomplish making an axe head. Even in the historic setting some add the bit later and might shape it differently. Some left the jaws and the bit long and after the weld, trim it all. This is a good way too.

There is another way that I want to experiment with shown me by Peter Ross. More on that later. Usually what Peter suggests works better so even though I present this a "a way" to make and axe head, it certainly is not the only way. It all serves to provide us with forging practice and the development of a process. The process is what we are really trying to develop. The axe or finished product is the by product. Understanding the process is my goal.

Thanks for the thoughtful reply, Lin. I've "made" 3 heads, two Hawks and one hatchet. None got finished because of various issues during the process. One was wrapped construction, using wrought iron for the body, then some high carbon for the bit. It was at a friend's shop and I don't know what the carbon steel was, but wow did the wrought move a lot more. Also, I ended up putting the bit all the way back to the eye, which as you mentioned, interfered with the drift, wanting to make the front edge of it push to one side or the other. That all left things off center, plus I ended up with too thin of eye walls... I also did the slit and drift method and boy do I have a whole lot of respect for those that can do that well... Not only is it hard work, but also difficult to keep things square and straight as you're creating that eye. I later got the bright idea to forge weld a starting billet of Damascus with something like 9 or so layers. I was going to then slit and drift the eye and have a cool, low layer head. Neat in theory, not in practice. No matter what I tried, I ended up tearing the layers apart in the process. I think you'd have to be really proficient (which I'm not) at the whole thing to not have that happen, or have a higher layer billet that's been forge welded more than just once?

I still have some nice wagon wheel wrought that I think is 5/8" thick. I'm thinking a wrapped one like you have demonstrated would be a good next attempt for me. And I'm thinking if I milled a recess on the back, I could cut off a piece of that 80crv2 and forge weld into the "pocket" for a poll so it wasn't ridiculously thick on that side. Thanks again for all the guidance for us on this. And I feel you're right on stressing the process. It's difficult to come up with any finished product without being intimately familiar with the steps to get there. This kind of thread helps immensely with that.

Jeremy

Jeremy,

The other "way" that I mentioned but have not tried yet involves the wrought body with a steel bit. Again, per Peter's suggestion. It is very likely to work if I follow the leadings of the material.

As you say the wrought will move more since it is softer but you also are working it really hot to keep it from separating. So, first, I want to not only shape the piece as in the tutorial but also go ahead and make a good strong weld like the wrought demands back near the eye. Start thick enough that reduction by welding and smoothing still leaves enough for the eye to blade transition. Do not weld it all the way to the end of the jaws. Leave a little on the end to open back up for the bit. But in this way, the bit is sort of square in cross section. the jaws open to 45 degrees each which forms a 90 degree angle. A square fits perfectly in it. Leave the jaws slightly longer to go past the bit and capture it. When welding, you will have to get everything to a compromising heat. In other words, you are working at the lower end of the wrought's welding temperatures and at the high end of the carbon steel bit's tolerance for heat.

Your first blow is straight into the jaws to set the weld and close any cracks. Then re flux and start the drawing out of the bit and jaws. I would only work this bright yellow till I am real sure things are stuck good. No hammering below orange.

This method takes into consideration the characteristics of the differing materials being used, attempting to stay with a range of tolerance for each. Their ranges overlap slightly. The old timers knew this and their process was influenced by this fact. Old materials, old ways.

Thanks, Lin. Once I get around to it again, I'll have to post up how it all goes. With fishing pretty well behind me for the year (darned rock in the river is a bad mix with a propeller...) and a deer out for processing, about time to get back to some shop time. I've got a hawk drift and matching handles and a real desire to get a finished one... Maybe the next go around will be the successful one <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />.

Jeremy

I cut out and carved a handle from kiln dried Hickory. I used a small torch to "paint" the color on the grain and then soaked it in linseed oil. The wood if just rasped with a medium course finish. This really gives a nice grip that's not slick but not too rough.

Lin, all very good. I love axes,and is on my list to try and make someday. I made a hammer back in the Spring,and it turned out very good, at least the third one did. The others went into the scrap bucket.

But we learn from our mistakes. Thanks again Lin. I enjoy your work.

Anthony