I want to make some folders, but the locking mech's and hardware is about as foreign as it can get to me.
i have read up on how to make some designs, but i'm still a bit lost. i also bought some knife kits so i can dissect them and see the inter-workings of it.
i was wanting to make a couple frame locks and a couple liner locks. and if i'm feeling froggy a slip joint or two.
when it comes to the screws, spacers, teflon or whatever liners, does anyone have any advice?
i have no problem buying books, its that there are too many to randomly pick from.
for now i plan on using the kits from knifekits as templates (cut out fresh parts, use none of the kits parts) to make my first couple to get the feel, then branch out. I don't want to sell those, just have them for personal use or gifts until i feel confident enough to make my own.
i hope that wasn't scatterbrained... Thanks again!
Hi Zach!
Personally, for parts, I will only use those from http://www.ticonnector.com/ (knifekits also sells them). The reason being is that those parts have MUCH better quality control. For a many years I used the cheap import stuff (because that was all that was available). But after using parts from TiConnector, its a no brainer... The parts are that much better! The problem with the import parts is the tolerances....most are +/-.002-.005. That doesn't sound like much, but its a LOT when dealing with folders.
Probably the most difficult thing for those who are just starting out building folders is understanding that you must change your mindset.... with straight knives, we normally deal in fractions of an inch. When it comes to folders you have to train yourself to think in thousandths of an inch. The up side is that after building folders, you will find that your straight knives improve dramatically.
Don't freak out when you make your first order of tooling for folders....chances are good that you will receive a little 3x5" padded envelope, that will cost you a couple of hundred dollars! <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /> Also, you will find that you'll want/need to make some changes in your shop.... things like making sure your drill press is "dead" on, and likely the addition of some tools/tooling.... And although I'm not saying you have to have one....but after building several folders by hand, I saved and purchased a surface grinder. After about 1/2 dozen folders being made with a surface plate, and still not being "right".....drove me to get the surface grinder. Probably the first "tool" I would recommend, if you don't already have it, is a GOOD set of digital calipers and and GOOD digital micrometer.
The best book I have ever seen on folders, as far as a learning aid, is "The Tactical Folding Knife" by Bob Terzuola.
For liner material, I personally recommend Titanium. Don't let that scare you...it is more expensive, and although you might have heard others say its difficult to work with, its not....only "different". It has a learning curve, but once you understand the material, the best thing about it is the consistencey.....its the same every time.
When it comes to washers, I encourage the use of bronze. It doesn't "squash" over time, and is much smoother then the "plastics". The one thing about bronze washers is that because it doesn't "give", your tolerances must be tight. With teflon or nylatron, they can help make up for less then tight tolerances, but you will generally sacrifice a smooth action as the trade off.
Of course there are lots of little things when it comes to folders, but the best thing an individual can do is to learn as you go....just the way most of us do with straight knives.
Ed Caffrey, ABS MS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
www.CaffreyKnives.net
|quoted:
Hi Zach!
Personally, for parts, I will only use those from http://www.ticonnector.com/ (knifekits also sells them). The reason being is that those parts have MUCH better quality control. For a many years I used the cheap import stuff (because that was all that was available). But after using parts from TiConnector, its a no brainer... The parts are that much better! The problem with the import parts is the tolerances....most are +/-.002-.005. That doesn't sound like much, but its a LOT when dealing with folders.
Probably the most difficult thing for those who are just starting out building folders is understanding that you must change your mindset.... with straight knives, we normally deal in fractions of an inch. When it comes to folders you have to train yourself to think in thousandths of an inch. The up side is that after building folders, you will find that your straight knives improve dramatically.
Don't freak out when you make your first order of tooling for folders....chances are good that you will receive a little 3x5" padded envelope, that will cost you a couple of hundred dollars! <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /> Also, you will find that you'll want/need to make some changes in your shop.... things like making sure your drill press is "dead" on, and likely the addition of some tools/tooling.... And although I'm not saying you have to have one....but after building several folders by hand, I saved and purchased a surface grinder. After about 1/2 dozen folders being made with a surface plate, and still not being "right".....drove me to get the surface grinder. Probably the first "tool" I would recommend, if you don't already have it, is a GOOD set of digital calipers and and GOOD digital micrometer.
The best book I have ever seen on folders, as far as a learning aid, is "The Tactical Folding Knife" by Bob Terzuola.
For liner material, I personally recommend Titanium. Don't let that scare you...it is more expensive, and although you might have heard others say its difficult to work with, its not....only "different". It has a learning curve, but once you understand the material, the best thing about it is the consistencey.....its the same every time.
When it comes to washers, I encourage the use of bronze. It doesn't "squash" over time, and is much smoother then the "plastics". The one thing about bronze washers is that because it doesn't "give", your tolerances must be tight. With teflon or nylatron, they can help make up for less then tight tolerances, but you will generally sacrifice a smooth action as the trade off.
Of course there are lots of little things when it comes to folders, but the best thing an individual can do is to learn as you go....just the way most of us do with straight knives.
You da man, Mr Caffrey!
i really want a surface grinder. its on my list. as well as a nice micro mill. and bandsaw. i'm basically set up pretty well for a fix blade workshop, but i really, really want to get into folders. they, to me, appear to be more practical this day and age. especially for the end user. i also see a larger area of creativity, but a frightful jump on difficulty. I love a challenge though.
thanks again!
Zach
I agree with you and your thread today is why I created a new sub-forum for "Folding Knives" this morning and moved your thread and several others into it. As you can see Master Smith and ABS Forum Moderator Ed Caffrey is a wealth of excellent advice.
I hope to see more questions, photos, and advice about constructing and designing folders in this new sub-forum.
Dan Cassidy
Journeyman Smith
Send an email to Dan
I wanted to post a pic of my backlock mech design but I am at the airport and the internet is baaaaaaaad. I hope I can remember when I land, in 30 some hours...
I have a couple slip-joint folder tutorials, on the "Tutorials" page of my web site.
My method for designing a slip-joint folder mechanism. Culver Slip-joint Folder Designing
Last year, I taught a class on building slip-joint folders at the New England School of Metalwork. The school doesn't have a milling machine, so I found some methods of making a folder with simpler tools. I put together this step by step tutorial, as a handout for the students. This build is based on designing the knife on paper, then using the paper sketches as a pattern.