Scott,

I first use a plain cork belt with green Koyo compound, then a felt belt with simichrome, followed by a clean felt belt. No buffer and I get a very high mirror polish. I got the 2x72 belts from SuperGrit. Work just fine and it's fairly easy to do.

GB

Thank you George. Appreciate the tip as I was not thinking about additional belts for the KMG.

For sharpening do you also use the cork belt to remove the burr too?

Seems a shame to take a blade that has been hand finished to 1500g and buff it.

Personally I only use a buffing wheel for my handles.

I was thinking the same thing Justin mentioned......personally, I think a 1500 grit hand finish is MUCH more attractive then a buffed/mirror finish ever could be. I might get boos and hisses, but to be totally honest, I think a mirror finish makes a knife look "cheap". I think my "bad taste" for mirror finishes came from the days when I did it, and was constantly trying to answer the question.... "Who chrom plates your blades?" Makes my blood boil! <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

.....personally, I think a 1500 grit hand finish is MUCH more attractive then a buffed/mirror finish ever could be.

I agree with Ed Caffrey!

Yes, seems to be the consensus. I much prefer a nice hand rubbed finish. The only thing I use the buffer for is guard pieces sometimes and handles.

Brion

I totally agree,a hand rubbed finish is so much nicer! Most my knives are finished to 800 satin. Those with Hamons are finished to 2000, and then rubbed out the way MS, Timothy Potier taught me.

My two cents!

Bob

I don't care for mirror finishes. They seem to get dark spots and rust quicker.

Dale

I am assuming that the buffing machine you have is rated at 3650 rpm.. If you use an arbor called a 'tapered spindle', you will have the ability to use just about any size buff with a 'pin hole' arbor size. Any jewelry supply company Rio Grande carries about anything you need. You can use different sized buffs to control the 'buff speed' to match your buffing needs.

First I want to thank all that have posted here. I have been away for a few days with the holiday weekend.

If the masses say taking it to 1500 is good who am I to argue. The finish is good but I wanted to take it to the next level if there is one.

I thought that the buffing compound would provide some level of rust protection. Maybe I am wrong on that account. The knives I am making are working knives (skinners and camp knives) and will be used in the field. Do you use anything on the blades to minimize rusting as a final finish?

Thanks,

Scott

|quoted:

I am assuming that the buffing machine you have is rated at 3650 rpm.. If you use an arbor called a 'tapered spindle', you will have the ability to use just about any size buff with a 'pin hole' arbor size. Any jewelry supply company Rio Grande carries about anything you need. You can use different sized buffs to control the 'buff speed' to match your buffing needs.

Thanks Teddy. I will look into Rio Grande's products.

Scott

Scott,

I apply a light coat of Renaissance Wax or a light weight oil, like Rem Oil or Break Free. 3&1 works too, just apply with a gun cleaning patch. Rem Oil disposable wipes are great in the field.

Bob

|quoted:

Scott,

I apply a light coat of Renaissance Wax or a light weight oil, like Rem Oil or Break Free. 3&1 works too, just apply with a gun cleaning patch. Rem Oil disposable wipes are great in the field.

Bob

Thanks Bob. Appreciate the help.

Only thing to add is that with the last grit, finish with full length sanding strokes in one direction. This will help with the little "swirls" in the finish that come from sanding back and forth. Using, the edge of the sanding block can help too.