would like to start getting more consistent performance on my edges.

I can only speak for myself, but I far prefer a convex edge (one that is sharpened on a slight slack area of the belt) to any given angle. Any time you create an angle within a blade's cutting edge, it's going to create "shoulders", which in turn creates cutting resistance. Essentially if you create an angle, no matter what degree it might be, it's going to create a "wedge" effect when cutting through just about any material. Conversely, creating a smooth convex or radius at the edge does not create a "wedge" effect, and allows material to flow smoothly over the edge, creating far less resistance then the obtuse shoulders that a given angle will produce. The other area that must be considered is the durability of the edge...with something like you mentioned (a 25 degree angle) the edge of a blade is far more delicate then if a fine convex is applied. One of the things that I find so interesting about a convex edge is the maker's ability to dramatically increase the durability of that edge, simply based on how much, or how little actual convex (curvature) is applied to a given edge.... and how either presents less cutting resistance then an edge created with a given angle.

There's a good reason why the majority of experienced Bladesmiths choose to use a flat ground blade, with a convex edge.... the flat grind reduces a vast amount of weight, making a blade "fast and light", and the use of a convex edge reduces the cutting resistance, and if applied correctly can dramatically increase the durability of the edge......it simply cuts better, with less effort then a blade with edge angles.

I am in complete agreement with Ed. I use a slack belt technique to roll the edge onto my flat grinds as well. If I have to do this for the final edge before hitting the stone I use wet grinding techniques to avoid intense heating at the micron level.

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I am in complete agreement with Ed. I use a slack belt technique to roll the edge onto my flat grinds as well. If I have to do this for the final edge before hitting the stone I use wet grinding techniques to avoid intense heating at the micron level.

Thanks Ed! Ill do that on my next blade!

Kevin,

How do you use the stones on the convex? is it a rolling push/ pull to get the whole convex or approach it like you would be aiming to take a shaving cut?

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Kevin,

How do you use the stones on the convex? is it a rolling push/ pull to get the whole convex or approach it like you would be aiming to take a shaving cut?

Think about it a second - you do not need to sharpen anything but the very front leading cutting edge!

You don't need to sharpen "the whole convex".

As you sharpen the leading edge, the convex will follow.

One of the simplest ways to describe sharpening the convex edge is to basically pretend you're trying to shave the top of the stone off.

Take a felt marker and mark the convex-shaped edge and take a stroke on the stone. You will see where the marker is removed to give you an idea of how you may need to adjust your position.

The remainder of sharpening is an entire volume of information and I won't even attempt to go there.

Just get the basics and practice.

Don't over-think it.

|quoted:

Think about it a second - you do not need to sharpen anything but the very front leading cutting edge!

You don't need to sharpen "the whole convex".

As you sharpen the leading edge, the convex will follow.

One of the simplest ways to describe sharpening the convex edge is to basically pretend you're trying to shave the top of the stone off.

Take a felt marker and mark the convex-shaped edge and take a stroke on the stone. You will see where the marker is removed to give you an idea of how you may need to adjust your position.

The remainder of sharpening is an entire volume of information and I won't even attempt to go there.

Just get the basics and practice.

Don't over-think it.

thanks Karl! Thats very helpful, I do have a tendency to overthink things.