As I look at the masters knives, the one thing that consistently stands out to me is their grind lines and razor sharp plunge cuts. I saw a video on how to use a file to start your plunge even before you start grinding the bevels. It helped but I still find myself destroying the sharp edge of the plunge at some point during the grinding process. Do most knife makers let the edge of the platen set their plunge or use a file to start it. Or is their another method that I haven't learned yet. I know this is knife grinding 101 but I feel like I find myself compromising on this aspect of my knives. Any insight would be greatly appreciated . Thanks.
Hi Mike!
Great question. I am interested to hear what the masters say about this as well. I can get it pretty well on the grinder, but to make the plunge really sharp and clean, I still have to use a file guide and file/abrasives.
Mike,
As you've noticed, the plunge area is critical to the appearance of your blade. Symmetrical grinds, parallel cuts and crisp edges make all the difference.
For too many years, I stubbornly free-handed the plunge, and then spent endless time cleaning up with chain saw files, and a hardened file guide. If I had a time machine, I'd go back and kick myself. Although I got pretty good at it, far too much time was wasted.
Finally, I bought a carbide insert file guide from Uncle Al, just to try out, after several folks had recommended it. There's a short learning curve, of course, but what a time and effort saver.
With the guide clamped right where you want the plunge line, and your brand new primary grinding belt, (I use a 50 grit Norton Blaze) running about a tenth of an inch off the edge of the platen, you can slide the carbide inserts against the belt's edge and lay the blade straight into the belt.
Working from either side, and grinding the blade essentially as usual, you can work the plunge line straight up the blade, following the carbide inserts perfectly. You'll be way ahead of the game when it comes to finishing out the blade.
Some may call it cheating, but I say all's fair in love, war, and blade grinding.
John
Great question Mike. I like my friend John used to do it freehand and I am not bad, but the file guide with carbide inserts is a real timesaver. Once you get the short learning curve taken care of, you will be amazed at how well you can do the plunge areas. One thing to make sure of is that your platen has the same radius or edge profile on both sides. These file guides are available from a number of sources, but mine came from Uncle Al at Riverside Machine, Uncle Al .They are not cheap, but I believe the time saving is well worth it. You will thank yourself.
I do cleanup on the plunges with a variable speed foredom tool and cratex points. The majority of my plunges are curved and the cratex can be shaped to match the contour, another timesaver. Then I go to hand rubbing. Still on certain knives, like daggers, I will use files with the file guide.
Alls fair in love, war, and blade grinding. I like that John.
Brion
Brion Tomberlin
Anvil Top Custom Knives
ABS Mastersmith
Mike ;
These guys have given you the absolute best advise for grinding in your plunge lines.
If you file in your shoulders; again use the file guides, but;
use a chain saw file or such to rough and then finish with a fine cut round file such as though made by Grobet and others. Your hand sanding will clean that up nicely.
As an extra, if you have to sand the ricasso after doing the plunge cuts; keep things flat. A even slightly rounded edge on the line will really hurt your crisp look.
M
Mike Williams
Master Smith
Wow! That's all I have to say. I'm kicking myself for not joining the ABS years ago. Should I worry about ruining the file guides with my belt or are they hard enough to withstand some contact?
Uncle Al's website just answered that question for me. I'm going to buy one. Thanks for the tips guys.
