Hi, Good choice. I have the KMG and I love it.

The 110 vs 220 I don't know, I run mine, a 2hp on 110. I don't know much about it except that the 110 draws more amps than the 220. Also my motor tends to overheat, I wonder if part of the problem is running it on 110 and I plan to switch the wiring over to 220 in the near future just to see if it makes a difference. As for running 220 to your shop you will need it sooner or later.

I haven't used 1.5 or 3hp but the 2hp has been adequate for me so far.

Variable speed, If you can afford the variable speed do it. I have the pulley system and am waiting till the day I can afford to upgrade.

I have just the platen and my next big purchase will be the small wheel adaptor. For what I do I don't know if a large contact wheel is needed but a couple in the 2-4" range would be nice. Mostly for shaping handles and such. One thing I have seen is replacing the aluminum platen wheels with contact wheels.

Plug in or hard wired is probably up to you. Mine is plug in but hard wired is probably better.

Hope this helps, -Justin

I'll try and answer your questions to the best of my ability.

1: I would go 220. Because : it uses half the amperage of 110 , therefore less cost. There are alot of other tools you will find that run on 220 as well. If you can run a 220/ 50 amp over there, then you can split it up for a few different machines.

2: I cannot make a comparison to the motors , I have only used mine. I have a 2hp variable speed

3: I would say definitly variable speed. I have never used a step pully system. It is so nice to be able to slow it down to a crawl for fine work, especially when your first starting out.

4: I use my 10" wheel ALOT ,sold my 8" wheel. Definitly a flat platten AND a piece of PyroCeram glass for it. I would recoment the small wheel attachment with a 1/2" wheel at min. Get a tooling arm for each wheel/attachment , it will save you SO much time.

5: Either way , mine is hard wired, because I never move it.

Hope this helps

Dwane Oliver

I've been running a KMG since shortly after they came out. I personally think there is not a better cost to quality grinder on the market. The area that the KMG shines in, versus the other grinders, is customer service. Not trying to down play anyone, but I had my heart set on a Bader BIII, but wanted some special options (basically the 1 1/2" and 3" contact wheels on the platen like on my platen) but was told "If it's not on the shelf, you're not getting it from us." I was willing to pay for it, but they simply refused me. I contact Rob Frink the next day, and he was happy to help me! In another KMG instance, I was in Tom Ferry's shop, and he had a bearing "spin" on his KMG....called Rob, and long story short, FedX showed up before 8am the next morning (on a Saturday) with a new bearing. (Rob is in Ohio, Tom's shop is in Washington state). You're not going to get customer service like that anywhere else! I've literally ran and worked the snot out of my KMG, sometimes it runs 6-8 hours a day, and never had a single issue.

1) 110 vs. 220 volt.is it worth the extra hassle to run 220 to my shop about 40 feet away to my garage?

If at all possible, I recommend 220V! I ran my Wilton Square Wheel for years on 110V....I could often trip breakers, and the machine just seemed "sluggish" on 110V. After changing it to 220V, it was a totally different machine....no bogging, stronger running, and I simply could not slow/bog it down.

2) 1.5 hp vs 2 or 3 hp. Is the 1.5 hp adequate for most knife making.?I don't want to have to upgrade a year from now.

I will not go less than a 2hp on any grinders in my shop. I have one grinder with a 2hp, and another with a 3hp.....big difference between the two.

3) 3speed vs variable speed ? Initial difference of about $500 or $800 after the fact to upgrade. Is it that nice to have ?

Once you use a Variable speed, you'll wonder how you ever did without it! When you adjust belt speed to match the belt type/grit your using, belts will last longer, cut better, and leave a better finish than a single speed machine can offer. It takes a bit of experimenting with the speed to find the "sweet spot" for each belt type/grit you use, but once you do, there is a very noticeable difference in belt longevity and finish versus a single speed machine.

4) What about options I.e grinding wheels,tensioners,platen and smaller wheels,any recommendations?

Much will depend on specifically what you intend to do with the machine. Personally, I have a flat platen which I designed/built ( http://www.caffreyknives.net/PlatenPage.html ), an 8" serrated wheel, 10" serrated wheel, and a small wheel attachment with a 3/4" contact wheel. Since I have two grinders, I keep a 10" serrated wheel on one machine for profiling, and that flat platen on the KMG for most of my grinding.

5) Does machine plug in or hard wired?

It can be either...but since I have two grinders sitting next to each other, both are "hard wired" into a selector box, which contains a toggle switch that allows power to be directed to one grinder or the other, but NEVER can both be running at the same time. That selector box is wired to a 220v plug, that fits into a 220 socket located on the wall at the back of the grinder bench. Most folks with a single grinder will generally wire the grinder to a plug, and have a matching socket wired into the wall (or someplace close)

Richard,

I'm an apprentice also but I've been making knives for a few years now. I'm very happy with the tool choices I've made so I'll share some of my thoughts about my choices with you.

Variable speed- I went this route from the beginning and I adjust my speed ALOT. Depending on what grit belt, the material being worked, the amount of control needed (think slow speed for small adjustments), belt tension etc. I'll slow down the belt. Pretty much the only time I run full speed is for hogging to remove bulk material when rate of material removal is more important than control. I can't imagine living without VS now that I'm accustomed to having it. Given the only option of more power or variable speed I'd pick variable speed every time, but you can have both. I'll also add that variable speed is not only great on the belt grinder but for other tools also.

When I got my KMG I was in your position. It was the first tool I got after a dremel and drill press. Being in a beginning stage of knifemaking it can be difficult to plan for the future when your not sure what tools you may want or need. Some you will need but you'll want them all. This is for sure, as you advance in this craft so will your tool collection ! That said, NOT planning for future tool purchases can really cost you money in the long run !

Is it worth running the 220 to your shop ? Yes Yes Yes and more Yes ! Here's why. My KMG, disk grinder, surface grinder, Evenheat kiln, and Lincoln 180c mig all run on 220. And in addidtion to that I'm hoping to soon add a horizontal grinder and variable speed buffer. There are 110v options for all these things but you'll be spending out the nose or giving up features to go that route IMHO.

Hard wired or cord ? It can be either way. When I first got the KMG I spent my last dime wiring in the 220 so I hardwired it just to have it running right away. After some time went by I got another motor and disk so I wired in a outlet and plugs to the motors.

Wiring up 220 and a VFD (variable frequency drive) is intimidating to alot of folks but I assure you that it's not difficult with a basic understanding of how it works. There are also some excellent tutorials showing very clearly how to wire the VFD. If you're not experienced with electrical you may want get an electritian to do your wiring.

When I set up my grinder Grizzly Tools was offering 3 phase motors at VERY reasonable prices but it looks like they stopped offering 3 phase. I wanted to go 2hp for the kmg so I needed a motor and drive. To upgrade from 2hp to 3hp the difference in cost was +$40 for the VFD and +$20 for the motor so for an extra $60 it was a no brainer for me to upgrade to 3hp. I've never stalled it or slowed it down so I've got no complaints but feel I would've probably been fine with 2hp. I went with a Teco FM50 3hp VFD which runs all my 220 motors. I wired in a dryer outlet after the VFD and put dryer cords on all my motors. Going this route allows my to add as many 3 phase (variable speed reversable) motors to my shop that I want without the need for another 220v breaker in the breaker box (which is full).

Is my set-up perfection ? No But it is extremely versatile and functional with single phase 110 and 220 and 3 phase 220.

For giggles lets look at the cost of buying complete from Beaumont vs sourcing your own motor and drive. I went with the 10" contact wheel package and I'm happy with it so I'll use that as an example.

Directly from Beaumont-

10" Grinder package $970

2hp motor drive -$896 total= $1866

3 hp motor drive-$1180 Total= $2150

There are a few other thing you'll need if sourcing your own stuff- Potentiometer (sp) switch two air filters for drive enclosure and plaxiglass cover pullys and belt = Approximately- $75

Grinder- $970

3hp 3phase motor- $275 https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=10-2583&catname=electric

3hp Teco drive- $185 http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/it.A/id.198/.f?sc=2&category=32

Total- $1430 +$75 = $1505

Grinder- $970

2hp 3phase motor- $170.95 http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/it.A/id.198/.f?sc=2&category=32

2hp Teco drive- $145 http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/it.A/id.196/.f?sc=2&category=32

Total- $1285.95 +$75 = $1410

If you went the way I did with the dryer outlet I think it was $12 and each cord is $20.

I saved even more money because I got my motor on clearance for $200 including shipping (IIRC). Buying a brand new Leeson or Baldor motor would add substantially to the cost of doing it yourself while scoring a deal on craigslist or e-bay on a motor could save alot more.

Other thoughts- Small wheel attachment is extremely handy to have. If money is a concern I'd start with a 3/4" wheel and add other sizes down the road.

You can see the money you can save isn't exactly chump change but lets add a disk grinder-

Beaumont 1hp VSR horizontal disk grinder- $890

Motor $112.95 https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=10-2385&catname=electric

disk $83

Cord $20 Total= $215.95

Hope this helps you make a more informed descision.

Take care- Josh

|quoted:

Hi, Good choice. I have the KMG and I love it.

The 110 vs 220 I don't know, I run mine, a 2hp on 110. I don't know much about it except that the 110 draws more amps than the 220. Also my motor tends to overheat, I wonder if part of the problem is running it on 110 and I plan to switch the wiring over to 220 in the near future just to see if it makes a difference. As for running 220 to your shop you will need it sooner or later.

I haven't used 1.5 or 3hp but the 2hp has been adequate for me so far.

Variable speed, If you can afford the variable speed do it. I have the pulley system and am waiting till the day I can afford to upgrade.

I have just the platen and my next big purchase will be the small wheel adaptor. For what I do I don't know if a large contact wheel is needed but a couple in the 2-4" range would be nice. Mostly for shaping handles and such. One thing I have seen is replacing the aluminum platen wheels with contact wheels.

Plug in or hard wired is probably up to you. Mine is plug in but hard wired is probably better.

Hope this helps, -Justin

Thank you Justin,

It sounds like the 220 and variable speed is a no-brainer. Everything is a trade off and I may have to sell that extra deer rifle collecting dusk but what the heck I always get my deer in archery season anyway. Your response is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Rich

|quoted:

Richard,

I'm an apprentice also but I've been making knives for a few years now. I'm very happy with the tool choices I've made so I'll share some of my thoughts about my choices with you.

Variable speed- I went this route from the beginning and I adjust my speed ALOT. Depending on what grit belt, the material being worked, the amount of control needed (think slow speed for small adjustments), belt tension etc. I'll slow down the belt. Pretty much the only time I run full speed is for hogging to remove bulk material when rate of material removal is more important than control. I can't imagine living without VS now that I'm accustomed to having it. Given the only option of more power or variable speed I'd pick variable speed every time, but you can have both. I'll also add that variable speed is not only great on the belt grinder but for other tools also.

When I got my KMG I was in your position. It was the first tool I got after a dremel and drill press. Being in a beginning stage of knifemaking it can be difficult to plan for the future when your not sure what tools you may want or need. Some you will need but you'll want them all. This is for sure, as you advance in this craft so will your tool collection ! That said, NOT planning for future tool purchases can really cost you money in the long run !

Is it worth running the 220 to your shop ? Yes Yes Yes and more Yes ! Here's why. My KMG, disk grinder, surface grinder, Evenheat kiln, and Lincoln 180c mig all run on 220. And in addidtion to that I'm hoping to soon add a horizontal grinder and variable speed buffer. There are 110v options for all these things but you'll be spending out the nose or giving up features to go that route IMHO.

Josh,

This was a great analysis. Thank for taking the time to do the price comparison and including the links. This organization is awesome,everyone is so helpful. Thank you so much! Rich

Hard wired or cord ? It can be either way. When I first got the KMG I spent my last dime wiring in the 220 so I hardwired it just to have it running right away. After some time went by I got another motor and disk so I wired in a outlet and plugs to the motors.

Wiring up 220 and a VFD (variable frequency drive) is intimidating to alot of folks but I assure you that it's not difficult with a basic understanding of how it works. There are also some excellent tutorials showing very clearly how to wire the VFD. If you're not experienced with electrical you may want get an electritian to do your wiring.

When I set up my grinder Grizzly Tools was offering 3 phase motors at VERY reasonable prices but it looks like they stopped offering 3 phase. I wanted to go 2hp for the kmg so I needed a motor and drive. To upgrade from 2hp to 3hp the difference in cost was +$40 for the VFD and +$20 for the motor so for an extra $60 it was a no brainer for me to upgrade to 3hp. I've never stalled it or slowed it down so I've got no complaints but feel I would've probably been fine with 2hp. I went with a Teco FM50 3hp VFD which runs all my 220 motors. I wired in a dryer outlet after the VFD and put dryer cords on all my motors. Going this route allows my to add as many 3 phase (variable speed reversable) motors to my shop that I want without the need for another 220v breaker in the breaker box (which is full).

Is my set-up perfection ? No But it is extremely versatile and functional with single phase 110 and 220 and 3 phase 220.

For giggles lets look at the cost of buying complete from Beaumont vs sourcing your own motor and drive. I went with the 10" contact wheel package and I'm happy with it so I'll use that as an example.

Directly from Beaumont-

10" Grinder package $970

2hp motor drive -$896 total= $1866

3 hp motor drive-$1180 Total= $2150

There are a few other thing you'll need if sourcing your own stuff- Potentiometer (sp) switch two air filters for drive enclosure and plaxiglass cover pullys and belt = Approximately- $75

Grinder- $970

3hp 3phase motor- $275 https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=10-2583&catname=electric

3hp Teco drive- $185 http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/it.A/id.198/.f?sc=2&category=32

Total- $1430 +$75 = $1505

Grinder- $970

2hp 3phase motor- $170.95 http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/it.A/id.198/.f?sc=2&category=32

2hp Teco drive- $145 http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/it.A/id.196/.f?sc=2&category=32

Total- $1285.95 +$75 = $1410

If you went the way I did with the dryer outlet I think it was $12 and each cord is $20.

I saved even more money because I got my motor on clearance for $200 including shipping (IIRC). Buying a brand new Leeson or Baldor motor would add substantially to the cost of doing it yourself while scoring a deal on craigslist or e-bay on a motor could save alot more.

Other thoughts- Small wheel attachment is extremely handy to have. If money is a concern I'd start with a 3/4" wheel and add other sizes down the road.

You can see the money you can save isn't exactly chump change but lets add a disk grinder-

Beaumont 1hp VSR horizontal disk grinder- $890

Motor $112.95 https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=10-2385&catname=electric

disk $83

Cord $20 Total= $215.95

Hope this helps you make a more informed descision.

Take care- Josh

|quoted:

I've been running a KMG since shortly after they came out. I personally think there is not a better cost to quality grinder on the market. The area that the KMG shines in, versus the other grinders, is customer service. Not trying to down play anyone, but I had my heart set on a Bader BIII, but wanted some special options (basically the 1 1/2" and 3" contact wheels on the platen like on my platen) but was told "If it's not on the shelf, you're not getting it from us." I was willing to pay for it, but they simply refused me. I contact Rob Frink the next day, and he was happy to help me! In another KMG instance, I was in Tom Ferry's shop, and he had a bearing "spin" on his KMG....called Rob, and long story short, FedX showed up before 8am the next morning (on a Saturday) with a new bearing. (Rob is in Ohio, Tom's shop is in Washington state). You're not going to get customer service like that anywhere else! I've literally ran and worked the snot out of my KMG, sometimes it runs 6-8 hours a day, and never had a single issue.

If at all possible, I recommend 220V! I ran my Wilton Square Wheel for years on 110V....I could often trip breakers, and the machine just seemed "sluggish" on 110V. After changing it to 220V, it was a totally different machine....no bogging, stronger running, and I simply could not slow/bog it down.

I will not go less than a 2hp on any grinders in my shop. I have one grinder with a 2hp, and another with a 3hp.....big difference between the two.

Once you use a Variable speed, you'll wonder how you ever did without it! When you adjust belt speed to match the belt type/grit your using, belts will last longer, cut better, and leave a better finish than a single speed machine can offer. It takes a bit of experimenting with the speed to find the "sweet spot" for each belt type/grit you use, but once you do, there is a very noticeable difference in belt longevity and finish versus a single speed machine.

Much will depend on specifically what you intend to do with the machine. Personally, I have a flat platen which I designed/built ( http://www.caffreyknives.net/PlatenPage.html ), an 8" serrated wheel, 10" serrated wheel, and a small wheel attachment with a 3/4" contact wheel. Since I have two grinders, I keep a 10" serrated wheel on one machine for profiling, and that flat platen on the KMG for most of my grinding.

It can be either...but since I have two grinders sitting next to each other, both are "hard wired" into a selector box, which contains a toggle switch that allows power to be directed to one grinder or the other, but NEVER can both be running at the same time. That selector box is wired to a 220v plug, that fits into a 220 socket located on the wall at the back of the grinder bench. Most folks with a single grinder will generally wire the grinder to a plug, and have a matching socket wired into the wall (or someplace close)

|quoted:

I've been running a KMG since shortly after they came out. I personally think there is not a better cost to quality grinder on the market. The area that the KMG shines in, versus the other grinders, is customer service. Not trying to down play anyone, but I had my heart set on a Bader BIII, but wanted some special options (basically the 1 1/2" and 3" contact wheels on the platen like on my platen) but was told "If it's not on the shelf, you're not getting it from us." I was willing to pay for it, but they simply refused me. I contact Rob Frink the next day, and he was happy to help me! In another KMG instance, I was in Tom Ferry's shop, and he had a bearing "spin" on his KMG....called Rob, and long story short, FedX showed up before 8am the next morning (on a Saturday) with a new bearing. (Rob is in Ohio, Tom's shop is in Washington state). You're not going to get customer service like that anywhere else! I've literally ran and worked the snot out of my KMG, sometimes it runs 6-8 hours a day, and never had a single issue.

If at all possible, I recommend 220V! I ran my Wilton Square Wheel for years on 110V....I could often trip breakers, and the machine just seemed "sluggish" on 110V. After changing it to 220V, it was a totally different machine....no bogging, stronger running, and I simply could not slow/bog it down.

I will not go less than a 2hp on any grinders in my shop. I have one grinder with a 2hp, and another with a 3hp.....big difference between the two.

Once you use a Variable speed, you'll wonder how you ever did without it! When you adjust belt speed to match the belt type/grit your using, belts will last longer, cut better, and leave a better finish than a single speed machine can offer. It takes a bit of experimenting with the speed to find the "sweet spot" for each belt type/grit you use, but once you do, there is a very noticeable difference in belt longevity and finish versus a single speed machine.

Much will depend on specifically what you intend to do with the machine. Personally, I have a flat platen which I designed/built ( http://www.caffreyknives.net/PlatenPage.html ), an 8" serrated wheel, 10" serrated wheel, and a small wheel attachment with a 3/4" contact wheel. Since I have two grinders, I keep a 10" serrated wheel on one machine for profiling, and that flat platen on the KMG for most of my grinding.

It can be either...but since I have two grinders sitting next to each other, both are "hard wired" into a selector box, which contains a toggle switch that allows power to be directed to one grinder or the other, but NEVER can both be running at the same time. That selector box is wired to a 220v plug, that fits into a 220 socket located on the wall at the back of the grinder bench. Most folks with a single grinder will generally wire the grinder to a plug, and have a matching socket wired into the wall (or someplace close)

Mr.Caffrey,

Thank you for your response and all of the time that you spend helping others with your vast amount of experience and knowledge. It may take me awhile to gather together enough cash to get just what I want. You gave very good advice recently about buying the best quality equipment that you can afford and how at the end of the day you actually save money,time,materials and alot of frustration. I just received my Nimba anvil,ordered a Chile Habernero forge and once I sell a few more things I will use your recommendations to order my

KMG grinder.

I also appreciate you sharing your medical history with everyone and you can be sure that I won't be skimping on price when it comes to good respirators and masks. I hope you are still in good health and thanks again for all you contribute to this great organization.

Sincerely,

Rich Kinsman

Richard, I hate all grinders, I just hate the KMG less than the others.

On the small wheels, I have a 1/2' and the 3/4 inch because they allow me to do hunters or fighters with the proper curve.

I have a 10 inch wheel but I also have a 4 inch serrated wheel because it allows me to get the metal off faster than a 10

Get the rotary platen, it allows you to convex your blades consistant and on the handle it stops "pin swell"

Flat platen and it was good advice to get a different arm for each attachment if you can. I built a rack next to the grinder that I just slide the arms in so its quick.

Good luck with it

Richard,

You've got a lot of good advice here.

One of the things that I think is great about the KMG is that it is easy to modify and build attachments for. I've got a few things on my web site showing what I have done with my KMG. KMG Jigs

Just type in a search for KMG attachment and you'll find a lot of cool stuff that people have built.

|quoted:

Richard, I hate all grinders, I just hate the KMG less than the others.

On the small wheels, I have a 1/2' and the 3/4 inch because they allow me to do hunters or fighters with the proper curve.

I have a 10 inch wheel but I also have a 4 inch serrated wheel because it allows me to get the metal off faster than a 10

Get the rotary platen, it allows you to convex your blades consistant and on the handle it stops "pin swell"

Flat platen and it was good advice to get a different arm for each attachment if you can. I built a rack next to the grinder that I just slide the arms in so its quick.

Good luck with it

Hi Jerry,

Thank you for the reply and information.Please consider that I am a total newbie to all of this but I must ask the question. Why do you hate all grinders?

Rich

Hey Steve, thanks for the link to your jigs! Great stuff. And thanks for all you do as an admin. here on the forum.

Tom

Richard because I left so many potential good knives on the floor as dust at the bottom of a grinder.

Yes, I use them, but it because I gotta.Takes too long to draw file which I have done.

|quoted:

Richard because I left so many potential good knives on the floor as dust at the bottom of a grinder.

Yes, I use them, but it because I gotta.Takes too long to draw file which I have done.

Thank you to everyone for all of the fantastic recommendations. This forum and members are just great. Again I look forward to meeting as many of you all as possible in the future.

Sincerely,

Rich Kinsman