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I used to use Wd40 years ago but started to have many of the same health concerns, but I also hated how oil based sanding slurry was like permanent ink on anything it touched, it was a real mess. Then one day Dr. Lucie told me he used Formula 409 and the cleanup was a breeze. This got me thinking and so I started mixing up my own water based solution using dish soap, a little denatured alcohol to help with drying and a touch of sodium bicarbonate to keep things base to avoid rust. Another variant of the recipe included a little ammonia so that I could use the same spray bottle to neutralize FeCl if I have to. I found that the water based fluid went much longer without loading up, did not loosen the abrasive bonding as much as oils and cleaned up very well. I have also noticed a more aggressive cut with water based rather than the slight lubricating action of oils.

That sounds great Kevin. Could you post a recipe or do you just throw some stuff together? Thanks for the reply!

-Jim

I'm another one that uses Simple green , I mix it 50/50 with water. It works great and smells good.

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I'm another one that uses Simple green , I mix it 50/50 with water. It works great and smells good.

Thanks for responding Calvin.

I have started using Simple Green also.

-Jim

I've used WD40 in the past recently using taping fluid/cutting oil. Looks like I'll be trying Simple Green and 409!

Thanks!

Wow I feel like a hillbilly. I am almost embarrassed to admit that if I have misplaced my wd40 can, I have been known to just spit on the paper. I will have to try the Simple Green.

diluted windex for me, because you can also neutralize FeCl with it, and it inhibits rusting some due to the ammonia. I use it to flush the little scrapes and cuts we all get before bandaging too. Works as well as rubbing alcohol, actually better because it doesn't hurt as much or desiccate your tissues.

diluted windex is great stuff. Honestly, I just sand dry at lower grits. I mean, it may save 5 sheets of paper per package of 50, but the constant wet isn't worth the hassle. It is with 400 grit and above. Plus, when you sand with windex, the blade is ready to etch after a good wipe with a clean paper towel or two. Then, use the same windex to neutralize after, and to help remove oxides. Great stuff.

I'm a little late to this party, but I use an orange citrus degreaser when hand sanding blades, and simple green when hand sanding fittings on the granite slab. Please don't ask why one for this function and a different lube for another function, I really don't have a reason. It's just one of those things.....

wear a resperator and gloves when hand sanding... wait why do you need to use lube when hand sanding?

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diluted windex for me, because you can also neutralize FeCl with it, and it inhibits rusting some due to the ammonia. I use it to flush the little scrapes and cuts we all get before bandaging too. Works as well as rubbing alcohol, actually better because it doesn't hurt as much or desiccate your tissues.

diluted windex is great stuff. Honestly, I just sand dry at lower grits. I mean, it may save 5 sheets of paper per package of 50, but the constant wet isn't worth the hassle. It is with 400 grit and above. Plus, when you sand with windex, the blade is ready to etch after a good wipe with a clean paper towel or two. Then, use the same windex to neutralize after, and to help remove oxides. Great stuff.

hydrogen peroxide works quite well for disinfecting along with antibacterial hand soap.

Most of my blades are entirely machine finished, so I don't do the most hand sanding. When I do though, I generally use off brand Windex. Also good for neutralizing flux after soldering guards, neutralizing after etching makers marks, hand sanding CA and other handle finishes, and numerous other tasks. About all I use wd40 for is cleaning off buffing compound