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Hand Sanding - Wd40 Health Issues

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Posts: 196
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Hey All,

I have the Russ Andrews sanding video, and attended his class at a hammer in. He uses, and most folks I have been in classes with, use WD40 on their sandpaper for hand finishing. I like how it works, much better than other things I have tried, but as the end of a long sanding session in my inside shop, the room is pretty fumed up.

The WD40 material data sheet says:

Symptoms of Overexposure:Inhalation: High concentrations may cause nasal and respiratory irritation and central nervous system effectssuch as headache, dizziness and nausea.

Skin Contact: Prolonged and/or repeated contact may produce mild irritation and defatting with possibledermatitis.

Do any of you have a better solution, meaning less toxic?

Thanks,

Jim

 
Posted : 04/01/2016 8:53 am
Karl B. Andersen
Posts: 1067
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Set a small fan off to the side and blow it away from your area.

I use Simple Green.

Karl B. Andersen

Journeyman Smith

 
Posted : 04/01/2016 9:21 am
Posts: 0
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Jim I use Mobil One 5W40 as my sanding lube. I find it floats particles off and my sandpaper last longer. It seems to work just fine in my shop. It only takes a drop or two to get the coverage on the blade for my medium sized knives.

 
Posted : 04/01/2016 10:10 am
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I used to use WD-40 all the time. Like you, I preferred it over everything else. After awhile, I noticed that after a day of hand sanding, I could taste (or maybe smell...not sure as the two are very much connected) WD-40 on my tongue the next day, even in the house and nowhere near my shop. I quit using it after that.

These days, I use nothing at all....just plain dry sandpaper. I might go through a bit more paper but I haven't noticed too much. And my blades are a lot easier to clean up prior to etching and there's just less mess in general.

Pretty sure I'm in the minority though for not using any type of liquid sanding aid.

 
Posted : 04/01/2016 10:12 am
Posts: 24
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I have used both water and Windex, but I only use these with 400 grit and above paper.

Ken

 
Posted : 04/01/2016 12:07 pm
Posts: 135
Estimable Member Apprentice Bladesmith
 

Hi Jim I read something recently about wd-40 being like dmso so I switched to dollar store baby oil it doesn't smell to much and I think it's probably thinner than a better brand. I also use watered down simple green and windex.

Gilbert

 
Posted : 04/01/2016 4:20 pm
Posts: 196
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|quoted:

Hi Jim I read something recently about wd-40 being like dmso so I switched to dollar store baby oil it doesn't smell to much and I think it's probably thinner than a better brand. I also use watered down simple green and windex.

Gilbert

Do you mix simple green and windex, or are you just using one of them watered down?

 
Posted : 04/01/2016 4:26 pm
Posts: 135
Estimable Member Apprentice Bladesmith
 

That could have been more clear by me just watered down simple green or Windex normal strength.

 
Posted : 04/01/2016 8:33 pm
cal harkins
Posts: 69
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I use Mobil One 5w30 grits up to and including 220. From 320 upward I use a mixture of 50:50 Mobil One 5w30 and kerosene.

 
Posted : 04/01/2016 9:52 pm
Posts: 196
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Topic starter
 

|quoted:

I use Mobil One 5w30 grits up to and including 220. From 320 upward I use a mixture of 50:50 Mobil One 5w30 and kerosene.

Thanks Cal

 
Posted : 04/01/2016 9:54 pm
Posts: 196
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Allright - I feel silly for not having tried this before but the Simple Green that Karl and Gilbert mentioned works amazing. I think it clears the paper better than even WD40 does and no fumes!

Thanks so much guys - you and this board are an incredible resource.

- Jim

 
Posted : 04/01/2016 9:57 pm
Posts: 196
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Topic starter
 

|quoted:

That could have been more clear by me just watered down simple green or Windex normal strength.

Thanks Gilbert!

 
Posted : 04/01/2016 9:58 pm
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I have stopped using wd4o for most of the sanding and just use it now for the last few clean up passes on the final finish. i use dish washing liquid and water, cheap and safe and it has the added benefit of being on hand to throw in the grinding bucket which makes the particles fall to the bottom(breaks surface tension) I use it in a two dollar pump bottle from the super market. Watch the back side of the knife doesn't rust! and oil your vice if that is where you sand.

 
Posted : 10/01/2016 5:46 pm
Posts: 196
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Topic starter
 

|quoted:

I have stopped using wd4o for most of the sanding and just use it now for the last few clean up passes on the final finish. i use dish washing liquid and water, cheap and safe and it has the added benefit of being on hand to throw in the grinding bucket which makes the particles fall to the bottom(breaks surface tension) I use it in a two dollar pump bottle from the super market. Watch the back side of the knife doesn't rust! and oil your vice if that is where you sand.

Thanks Shawn.

 
Posted : 11/01/2016 3:26 pm
Kevin R. Cashen
Posts: 735
Member
 

I used to use Wd40 years ago but started to have many of the same health concerns, but I also hated how oil based sanding slurry was like permanent ink on anything it touched, it was a real mess. Then one day Dr. Lucie told me he used Formula 409 and the cleanup was a breeze. This got me thinking and so I started mixing up my own water based solution using dish soap, a little denatured alcohol to help with drying and a touch of sodium bicarbonate to keep things base to avoid rust. Another variant of the recipe included a little ammonia so that I could use the same spray bottle to neutralize FeCl if I have to. I found that the water based fluid went much longer without loading up, did not loosen the abrasive bonding as much as oils and cleaned up very well. I have also noticed a more aggressive cut with water based rather than the slight lubricating action of oils.

"One test is worth 1000 'expert' opinions" Riehle Testing Machines Co.

 
Posted : 11/01/2016 5:37 pm
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