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Flat Grinding Tips And Techniques

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Hi Phil, I don't have any pictures, I didn't have a dry erase board like Tim Hancock uses so took old sign board and covered with painters paper and magic marker. Good idea to to pictures of process, I'll do that for next class. Jerry

 
Posted : 08/01/2016 6:06 pm
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Shuck, no one snapped a photo of your picture board. Next time.

Sounds like you must have really developed your technique via lots of study, practice and then teaching it. Well done!

 
Posted : 09/01/2016 12:34 am
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Karl Anderson pretty much describes my method- I thought I had invented it, then I saw the Hancock video (it's back up btw: https://www.facebook.com/wuertzmachineworks/videos/465804440154708/ )

and Nick Wheeler's videos on using a rest and a push stick.

Lots and lots of improvements I'd never thought of.

One thing that I don't see here is a c-shaped rest. The reason I use a rest that kind of wraps around the belt is, especially when grinding 1/8" and thinner blades, it's really easy for them to slip down between the belt and the rest if the rest moves away from the belt even a tiny bit, which can really set you back or even ruin your blade. I make kind of a lot (a few hundred a year) of thin, flat and convex blades, so this is a big issue for me- not so much if all you do is thick spined bowies!

If the rest is made as a rectangle with a cutout for the belt, then you have something on either side of the belt that will support the spine of the blade as you draw it across.

I made an extra piece that I actually clamp to the rest, so that I can ditch it when it's not needed, for profiling, etc.

 
Posted : 01/02/2016 3:17 pm
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