I use Mobil One 5W40 as my lube on my final 2 grits Windex before that.. Only sand down the length of my blade on the final grit pass. Works pretty good for me. 400, 500, and 600 grit are the ones I use. I like a very light satin finish and no fish hooks.

Jared the main things are good lighting, steady even pressure and pull, and no start stops on the final finish. I have three lights over my workbench in three different positions for different angles. When you do the final strokes, do a steady even pull from the ricasso to the point, no starting or stopping. Every time you start or stop somewhere on the blade you can get fishhooks. I usually go to 600 for a blade and my final strokes are with a hard oak block, 4"x 1" and 1/4" thick backed with a piece of thin leather. I also do not bear down real hard on the final passes. I have been using WD40 for the lubricant.

Brion

Call me next time you're in town. I can't forge worth a darn, but I can put on a nice even hand finish. They keys, IMO, are largely what you've read before. I start with a 400 belt finish, then to 400 with a metal sanding bar and Rhynowet sandpaper. I use wd40 for lube. Even if I plan to stop at 400, which I do fairly often, I just work on the vertical scratches until I'm almost all the way done. I don't worry about the hooks. Then after I get everything to a dirty 400, that is, no vertical scratches but some fishhooks, I switch to a leather backed piece of paper and sand in hard strokes from the plunge to the tip. Brion is correct, any stops or starts will result in a wonky finish. Those last strokes are dry, no lube, and I use a fresh part of the paper for every stroke. Usually doesn't take long to get the hooks out. Good lighting is important. I have two different flourescents and some regular bulbs, and I use sunlight also when I can. If you're going to go to a higher grit finish, start alternating the direction of the scratch pattern, like I'm sure you've read before.

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Call me next time you're in town. I can't forge worth a darn, but I can put on a nice even hand finish. They keys, IMO, are largely what you've read before. I start with a 400 belt finish, then to 400 with a metal sanding bar and Rhynowet sandpaper. I use wd40 for lube. Even if I plan to stop at 400, which I do fairly often, I just work on the vertical scratches until I'm almost all the way done. I don't worry about the hooks. Then after I get everything to a dirty 400, that is, no vertical scratches but some fishhooks, I switch to a leather backed piece of paper and sand in hard strokes from the plunge to the tip. Brion is correct, any stops or starts will result in a wonky finish. Those last strokes are dry, no lube, and I use a fresh part of the paper for every stroke. Usually doesn't take long to get the hooks out. Good lighting is important. I have two different flourescents and some regular bulbs, and I use sunlight also when I can. If you're going to go to a higher grit finish, start alternating the direction of the scratch pattern, like I'm sure you've read before.

Thanks guys... Jason, I'll give you a call.