I know the answer to this but I have move plunge line down to far and ruined this knife, this is what I am thinking.

I know the answer to this but I have move plunge line down to far and ruined this knife, this is what I am thinking.

Hey Brandon,

I found that if I'm not happy with my plunge lines, I can use a file with one side ground off to bring the lines to where I would like them to be. Let the side of the file do the work, and let the smooth side rest on the flat of the blade. It's slow, but the results are consistent. If you really want them sharp, you can use a file guide for the finish work. Or if you're like me, put the file guide on the blade as you grind, and make sure the edge of the belt isn't ruining the guide.

-Evan

I use a work rest and slow the belt speed way down and use a J flex 220 with the end slightly wrapped around the edge of the platen. It takes a little practice but I get the blade touching the belt without any pressure then in as close to smooth as I can get I push the blade into the belt and bump the plunge line into the edge of the platen then quickly pull the blade across the belt. If you pause at any point you risk the dreaded 2" mark on your blade.

Another way is to clamp a file guide on your blade where you want the plunge lines to be then grind down to the guide. unless you have a work rest narrower than 2" you will have to do this free handed. I use this one on certain blades where the plunge is angled and a work rest wouldn't work anyway.

I forged that hunting knife blade so I could describe my process of grinding. We're often taught to profile first and I do profile the spine, cutting edge, and the tang. The bottom of the ricasso and the back of the choil I leave alone till later.

I establish parallel sides on the ricasso which also provides the basis for just about everything else. Then I start grinding the bevels dialing in the two plunges. Somewhere in this stage, I heat treat and go back to my sequence of grinding, now the finish grind. Again, I get the plunges even but they are a bit forward/above of the material under the ricasso and the material I left on the choil. Once I'm happy with the ricasso and the bevels and plunges, I can then grind under the ricasso and move the choil forward to meet the plunges.

This is a rough description. But by changing the grinding sequence you can give priority to the most difficult part of grinding, getting that done, then bring the choil forward and the ricasso up to meet it. This may require forging with a slightly larger stock to be able to leave the material where it needs to be. Also, notice that I forge the plunges on a forward leaning angle. In the picture, look at the marks, see how that enables me to use the sequence I'm describing to get all of the points to dial in where I want them.

Thank you all, lasts more practice

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