So I'm working on trying to clean up some belt marks on a full tang and I have a couple of questions. What's the best way to get into the area pictured to clean it up to 400/600 grit? Right now I'm hand sanding. I know there is no way to get around hand sanding the finish, but wondering if there is a way to get me a little farther along so I'm not hand sanding as long. Lastly when I start working on full tangs, I have a hard time not getting a "high spot" around the tang or around corby bolts. I know this is due to the fact that wood removes faster than steel. What are some techniques to help with this or avoid it?
Thanks in advance,
Travis<><
Travis,
Inside curves are tough spots to do entirely my hand. I have a bunch of different sized wheels for the 2x72 that I use for this. The one I use most is a 2 inch diameter wheel that I exchanged with the top idler wheel on my flat platen. For the finger notch on full tangs, I find a small wheel (3/4" or 1") works best. Working at a slower speed will help a little with the high spots. I generally mechanically sand to 220 grit and finish out with the finer grits by hand. Pencil erasers you can buy at almost any drugstore or grocery store in the school supplies section come in various colors and hardness. Pink ones are harder than the white ones. I also boughtt some 35 durometer rubber (harder than the pink eraser) from MSC and cut pieces to use as sanding blocks and glued some to sanding sticks for various applications. I hope that helps.
Joshua States
www.dosgatosforge.com
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Thanks Joshua! Those are some great ideas. I have a sanding stick I use that's flat on one side and has leather on the others, but it sounds like those erasers might be in the middle. I'm looking to get/build a small wheel attachment for my grinder as well.
Thanks again!
Travis<><
A dremel tool would come in handy. I also have a 3/8 rod with a slot cut in it that i chuck into my cordless drill. Cut a strip of sand paper and wrap it up. Should work.
Travis, a few suggestions. A rotary tool such as a dremel comes in real handy for this. I would recommend getting a good variable speed rotary tool. Foredom is my go to. They are not cheap, but they come in real handy for so many things. I use my foredom with sanding rolls in 1/2" and 1/4" sizes. I also use cratex abrasive points and wheels. They come in different grits. RioGrande Jewelry supply is a great resource for things like that. WWW.Riogrande.com. Another thing I use is a needle file. Usually an the less expensive sets the handles are covered with plastic and are round. So, you can wrap sandpaper around the handle and use that. As Joshua mentioned, smaller flexible sanding blocks are great too.
Brion
Brion Tomberlin
Anvil Top Custom Knives
ABS Mastersmith
I do like Josh and usually go 220 sometimes 320. Depending on the handle I'll try to do as much as possible with the platen (belt just over the edge) and tool rest carefully squared up especially on say a frame handle or non tapered tang. I do have small wheels and there great. Maybe clamp the handle and wrap sand paper around a wooden dowel it will give a little cushion and you can work different areas of the dowel before you unroll fresh paper.
Thank you all for your advice. I appreciate all of the suggestions!
Travis<><
