Andy,

I'm wondering if you're keeping your sand paper tight to a completely flat sanding block. If so, then you may not be keeping the block flat with the blade through the entire stroke as you sand. This can be sometimes difficult as you change directions with each change of grit.

Gary

Andy, with what type of machine/belt/platen/wheel/etc. configuration did you create the main grind in the first place?

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Andy, with what type of machine/belt/platen/wheel/etc. configuration did you create the main grind in the first place?

Saving up for contact wheels for my new built grinder, for now it's a Grizzly with a flat (ceramic) platen and a curved one with a 36" radius, and I also clean up the flats and flat bevels on a variable speed disk.

At this time I'm not doing hollow grinds on the wheel, because it's kind of awkward on that machine, only the large radius hollow grinds on the curved platen.

I seem to go back and forth between just a squeak more on the bevel then a squeak more on the flats to try to get that line crisp, but I've never watched a real bladesmith do this!

The question is unclear to me. Andy, are you speaking of the cutting edge bevel?

Thanks for the replies.

The transition between the bevel and the flat, partway down from the spine is the one I'm struggling with- getting it straight is something I'm starting to get on top of, but getting it really crisp is challenging.

I wonder if there's a rule of thumb of any kind in what grit you take it up to on the power equipment before going to hand sanding?

And does that change depending on what steel you're using? I can see doing a lot of sanding on 1084, but something like Cruforge would be a beast to sand, and would it make sense to go a little finer with a wear-resistant steel?

Andy, I'm going to suggest that a large part of your difficulty lies in the Grizzly grinder - not in your method or desire.

That is the same one I started with and had nothing but difficulty in trying to achieve what I knew I was capable of.

Truth is, Andy, you are more than likely better than your grinder.

Those things just run wide open. You are really not able to control things to the degree necessary to attain the quality of grind that you desire.

I wasn't, either, until I bought a variable speed grinder, and then EVERYTHING Changed!!

I'm sorry to be the one to tell you that.

I just got tough and coughed up the $$ to buy a variable speed grinder - about 2 grand - 13 years ago and it was one of the best moves I ever made.

I was able to make the kind of knife I knew I was capable of, and the grinder literally paid for itself.

That's something to think about.

In addition - the next smartest thing I ever did was to find a maker within a few hours drive of me and have him show me how to do a couple things.

Nothing like seeing it done first-hand.

Thanks, Karl.

I've got the frame for the new grinder ready, just got to scrape up the money for wheels (I do a lot of fabrication and blacksmithing so making the frame isn't too tall an order.)

There are a lot of fine blade makers in this area (northwest) but it's odd that the ABS has no events here- so far I haven't figured out if there are hammerins of any kind other than straight blacksmithing.

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Thanks, Karl.

I've got the frame for the new grinder ready, just got to scrape up the money for wheels (I do a lot of fabrication and blacksmithing so making the frame isn't too tall an order.)

There are a lot of fine blade makers in this area (northwest) but it's odd that the ABS has no events here- so far I haven't figured out if there are hammerins of any kind other than straight blacksmithing.

Andy, we are aware of the issue and looking at possibilities to fix the problem.

Bill Wiggins

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Andy, we are aware of the issue and looking at possibilities to fix the problem.

Bill Wiggins

That's good news!

I'm in a pretty remote spot, probably just need to get off the rock and try to visit some shops in the area, get plugged in.

Hey Andy,

Hopefully you still have my address and phone number. I have both fixed speed and variable speed grinders. Fixed for the hogging when needed and variable for finesse work. You should come over and give them a try before you finish building yours. Like Karl said, the variable speed really opens your world up. By the way, I still have lots of 1" swaged logging cable for the taking. Come and get some. Anyone near Edmonds Wa is welcome to come and get some. 425-771-4504 leave a message if I don't answer. I have about 400 feet to get rid of before my wife and I move.

r/Robert

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That's good news!

I'm in a pretty remote spot, probably just need to get off the rock and try to visit some shops in the area, get plugged in.

Andy,

You might consider buying a guide with carbide inserts to grind in the ricasso. The same can be used to finish file a more crisp line. If you ever get south of the border, give me a buzz and come by.

John Emmerling

Gearhart Ironwerks

503-738-5434

Andy:

If I understand you correctly, your area of concern is the plunge cut. I had difficulty with that until I received some guidance from Master Smith J. Neilson. I grind in my bevels with 60 grit X weight belts staying just forward of the plunge cut. I then switch to 220 grit J weight belts and run it about 1/4" over the edge of the platen or wheel if making concave grinds. I bump the plunge cut in - the more flexible J weight belt will bend around your platen/wheel and make a smooth plunge cut.

I lift the edge of the blade just a hair because when you push in your plunge, it drives the blade into the opposite side of the belt and cuts a groove. Hope this helps - as the other makers said, a good machine that tracks well with a variable speed is a must for finesse work like this.