I like a very fine (2500 grit finish) with about a 5 second dip in feric chloride and then polished up with simichrome polish. The fine finish gives less of a toe hold for rust and the etches oxide finish reinforces this . Just my thoughts but it works well in my experience.

Paul,

Thanks. That sounds like it would work well. I have a knife I did that with to bring out the hamon, and now I know why it seems to be holding up so well! Do you, or does anyone else out there have any other suggestions? I'm looking for as many different ways, from refined to "down & dirty", as I can get so I can try them and figure out which I like the best. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//cool.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='B)' />

Hello Ed. Pauls method is a good one. Another option would be hand rub to 600 then rub with a gray scotchbrite pad. The scotchbrite gives a good finish that is easy to fix or clean up. Also, you do not really have to deal with fishooks in the finish. You can also use a scotchbrite belt and do a belt finish.

A number of my knives go out with an etched finish like Pauls and do pretty well.

Brion

another options is fine belts and finish with the finest Scotchbrite belt that you have.

Thanks Brion and Joe!

Has anyone ever used just vinegar or mustard to oxidize the surface, and is it an accepted practice, or is it not recommended for any reason?

Check out J. Nielsons knives , He has done a lot with mustard finishes. They look great and I understand that they are really durable.

www.mountainhollow.net/

Thanks for the link, Paul. Those mustard finishes do like interesting, and that gives me a third choice for a finish to offer the person who asked for these knives.

My new favorite finish for working knives is manganese phosphate (parkerizing). If you don't mind a black blade, this holds up surprisingly well. I have even used knives in salt water and had no rusting issues. You can get the stuff from Brownells or Midway USA. $80. Gets you a lifetime supply. The idea is similar to Paul's light etch in that the oxides hold oil well.

Good luck.

Adam.

Adam, what type of finish do you take the blade to before parkerizing, and how does that vary between mono steel and damascus.

I do mostly damascus, but I haven't started experimenting yet with parkerizing or hot bluing, but am planning to very soon.

Honestly this is something that we should be discussing down on the "topic of the month".

Thanks!

Thanks Adam! I was wondering about Parkerizing...I'm with Javan and would also like to know what finish to take the blade to before Parkerizing. And I agree this would make a great "Topic of the Month" <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//cool.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='B)' />

Brownells has a downloadable PDF info document entitled, MANGANESE and ZINC PARKERIZING INSTRUCTIONS that might be worth while reading through.

Thanks Phil <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//cool.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='B)' />

Ed, are the blades done? If so, what finish did you choose?

Hey Cheyenne!

Yes, they're done and gone to their new owners (father & sons). I would have put a pic here, but there are pics in the "Knife Critiques" section under "M3 Camp Tool Set", and I'm having trouble downloading a pic here for some reason. The person I made them for chose the mustard finish with the pattern you see in the pic (I made a bunch of samples of different finishes for people to choose from...helped a bunch). The photo is poor, they looked way better in person. Let me know what you think <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//wink.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />