I've never found the Norton Blaze to my liking. For years I have used the 3M 984 ceramics. Pricey - but unparalleled in my opinion.

I am unfamiliar with the ones you mention.

Thanks for the reply Karl. I agree the 3M is a great product. I had the pleasure of working in Lin Rhea's shop and used one while I worked our project. Admittedly shortly after creating this topic I placed a healthy order of 3m 984's from Pops. However I don't want to dismiss an option if the quality and price are good. Suppose the best way to know for me is to buy a few and try em out side by side with the 3M.

When you buy from what I consider the 2nd line sellers, the ones who's offerings are mostly imported, you're getting basically all the same belts....they just have different names/designations on the backings.

When it comes to buying belts, in my mind there are only two places to buy from.....

If you live east of the Mississippi, Pop's Knife Supply out of Washington, GA.

If you live west of the Mississippi. Tru-Grit Abrasives out of Ontario,CA

Both have the best prices you will find, and the only reason I say which to use, is because of shipping times. Depending on your geographical location..... the belts will be there within a couple of days, versus a couple of weeks.

For a lot of years I used Norton Blaze belts....until they jacked up the prices so high, and wrecked the belts by putting some kind of "coating" on the backing that turns into goop on the platen under heavy use....... they were no longer worth the money.

For my heavy grit belts, which are 50 grit, I use VSM XK760X ceramics. I'm always on the lookout for new/better abrasives, that offer performance/longevity AND are economical..... Blaze ARE NOT ECONOMICAL...at least no longer.

I noticed you start at 36 grit..... your spending more money, and keeping more belts in stock than you need to.

My recommendation, just to save yourself some money on belts, and a couple of grits, I'd recommend changing your belt/grinding sequence..... by doing so, it will save you both the cost of a couple of belt grits....as well as time at the grinder. Do not start with a 36 grit.... although it removes a lot of material, it also leaves such huge scratches, and you MUST go to a 50 or 60 grit just to get the 36 scratches out, then to 80, 120, or perhaps 180 grit....see where I'm going?

So why not just start with a 50 grit.....then you can go to a 120, versus having the extra grits around, and the time using them? Just trying to save you some money in belts.

Just as an example.... when I am finish grinding (after heat treat), I commonly can jump from a 50 grit..... straight to a 400. That sounds impossible, but it only takes several "passes" more per side, AND I can skip 120 and 220 grit.....so I not only save the time of using those grits, but I also use fewer belts....which saves money on belts.

Please don't take that as being miserly on belts.... my attitude, and advice to others, is... "USE BELTS LIKE THEY ARE FREE!" But! That does not mean to be wasteful either. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//wink.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />

Thanks for the advice Ed. I did in the past use 36 grit but have recently stopped for the very reason you mentioned. However I still like to have them around for hogging off material when making Damascus. I'll have to give the VSM a try since they are about 1/2 the price of the 3M. Thanks again!