Bobby,

If you mean by "a system" a mechanical jig or assisted holding device, even they are adjustable. In my opinion, the main reason folks use only one angle is they don't want to go to the trouble of changing the settings.

If you think about the apple seed edge, it is merely numerous angles that meet at the edge. They roll around to the angle of the blade flat. It can be truly rounded or with many, almost imperceptible, flats making up the apple seed.

The purpose of the apple seed shape is to pull back the "shoulders" into a shape that flows better through material in a very similar way an airplane's wing flows. But the actual angle of the stroke while sharpening could be exactly the same as the stroke used to sharpen a blade with "standard" geometry. The apple seed still has strength while flowing better. This added ability to flow is often confused with sharpness. Both may be sharp but one seems to cut better.

The apple seed is established during the grind, maintained during the hand finishing, and maintained periodically by hand if necessary with stones or mechanical assistance. The sharpening is right on the actual edge and is defined by the angle held whether by hand/eye or mechanically as with a jig. The radius(very loose term in this case)of the apple seed is behind/above and does not hinder the actual edge angle.

I use the apple seed edge on nearly all my knives.

I use the apple seed edge on nearly all my knives.

Ditto for me! Lin explains it well.

When I teach folks how to sharpen a convex edge (what you called "apple seed", it's WITHOUT any type of jig. Rather then a typical sharpening motion (like trying to take a thin slice off the sharpening stone), I teach them to do the opposite....drag away from the edge, and the natural motion of your body will create the "roll". As with anything freehand, it takes time and practice to perfect....but once you get the "feel" for it, it's a no brainer.

Personally, I offer free claning and sharpening to clients who purchase my knives....they just pay shipping both ways. That way I can ensure they don't wreck a blade's edge. I also include paperwork/instructions with each knife.

Does it solve everything? OH NO! One thing the years have taught me....you cannot underestimate the level of human stupidity. These days, common sense is so rare, it should be consider a super power. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /> All we can do is the best we can, to educate, and take our lumps as necessary.

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Bobby,

If you mean by "a system" a mechanical jig or assisted holding device, even they are adjustable. In my opinion, the main reason folks use only one angle is they don't want to go to the trouble of changing the settings.

If you think about the apple seed edge, it is merely numerous angles that meet at the edge. They roll around to the angle of the blade flat. It can be truly rounded or with many, almost imperceptible, flats making up the apple seed.

The purpose of the apple seed shape is to pull back the "shoulders" into a shape that flows better through material in a very similar way an airplane's wing flows. But the actual angle of the stroke while sharpening could be exactly the same as the stroke used to sharpen a blade with "standard" geometry. The apple seed still has strength while flowing better. This added ability to flow is often confused with sharpness. Both may be sharp but one seems to cut better.

The apple seed is established during the grind, maintained during the hand finishing, and maintained periodically by hand if necessary with stones or mechanical assistance. The sharpening is right on the actual edge and is defined by the angle held whether by hand/eye or mechanically as with a jig. The radius(very loose term in this case)of the apple seed is behind/above and does not hinder the actual edge angle.

I use the apple seed edge on nearly all my knives.

Thank you very much for the detailed response Lin. I completely agree that an apple seed edge flows better, I just didn't realize that sharpening the edge could be done in the more traditional manner. I really appreciate the help.

Is it bad form here to resurrect somewhat zombie threads? I like discussion and I’m trying to throw some of my ideas against the wall around here and maybe get some guidence and hear more experienced opinions.

I’m a seasoned metal and leather worker but a new bladesmith and I am trying to sharpen on the 2x72 as much as possible using my vfd to run slower through the grits all the way to a leather stropping belt. I figure if I can start that learning curve now I will be sharpening quickly efficiently and hopefully more and more cleanly safely and skillfully as I gain experience. Maybe I will eventually master a level of fit and finish where the amount of time already invested will demand a slower process of stoning with less risk of disaster but I dunno. I’m way new to this skillset but going from a finished butter knife edge to shaving sharp on the 2x72 is pretty dreamy easy compared to stones.

This video might help you create that edge on the 2x72.

https://youtu.be/PnpIu6OB4QI

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This video might help you create that edge on the 2x72.

https://youtu.be/PnpIu6OB4QI

Yeah I really like sharpening on my 2x72. I came from a 1x42 without variable speed- the chance of overheating the edge wasn’t worth the faster speed than hand sharpening. The leather belt is awesome too I love it.

Thanks for the link it’s cool to watch bow somebody else moves their hands.