I don't do a lot of file work and it is pretty basic when I do. I cut a strip of 1/8 graph paper and glue it to the part being worked on. Then just file through the paper for the beginning cuts; which gives me a hope of having it laid out evenly. Doing it nicely is beyond me after that.

M

This is a good topic! I have been working on improving my decorative filework lately. I have a few tips and observations that I have picked up which I think might be helpful.

1) Early on, I was having a hard time getting a crisp, thin line or barb in my filework. I can't remember where I discovered this trick--I didn't come up with it on my own--but the answer is to take a half-round needle file (#2 cut or finer) and basically grind dagger bevels on the flat side. This will produce two edges with SHARP file teeth, and it will enable you to cut extremely fine marks.

2) When I was starting out, I didn't actually know how file coarseness was graded, so I figure I'll throw this in in case there's anybody in that position. Files are graded much like sand paper. The higher the number (6 is the highest I've ever seen), the finer the cut.

3) It is best to have each file in several grades. Use the coarser ones to cut the pattern, and the finer ones to finish. A #6 file will leave a finish approximately equivalent to 400 grit paper, in my experience.

4a) When doing the layout for your file work make sure you consider how it will look from all angles (i.e. from above, and from an elevation).

4b) When cutting your file work, make sure you consider how it will look from all angles. You'll need to rely on your eyeballs and on muscle memory to ensure that your cuts are all at the same angle, same depth, etc.

5) Whether I pre-mark my cuts or just eyeball them, I like to cut into a surface covered in layout dye (or magic marker, or what have you). I find that it allows me to see my cuts very crisply.

6) I have found that to produce filework with a little bit more action and interest, it is best to "sweep" the file. (There's probably a better term for it, but that's what I've landed on.) Where a cut would normally just be at a 45 degree angle, perpendicular to the spine, I start out at a slightly shallower angle, follow through the 45, and finish the cut at a slightly steeper angle. When you repeat this consistently over a whole section of filework, I think it just looks better--but it is harder to do it evenly--the cuts will catch light at more angles.

....and I think those are my tips for the moment.

cheers.

Zack

These monthly topics are great sources of information, and this is another great topic. Tim Potier gave us a demo on file work in the Intro Class, and sparked my interest. I've been practicing on scraps, but probably need some better files. And, a lot of practice!

What are the best types and sizes of files and vendors who carry them? Are there any good DVDs? I'm using the Handles and Guard book for now, but plan on attending the class next year.

Bob

Microscope, high speed dental burr and three sided file with one safe side is what I use for all my filework on thin liners, i.e. 0.064 to 0.020 I love doing filework and the microscope makes it even more fun as does the dental burr! <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

These are filing aids for creating a center grove around fittings. These are sized for a grove cut with a 1/8" file. They are made with 1/2" thick micarta. The micarta pieces have slots milled down the center with a 1/8" end mill. The micarta is also drilled at each end with a 1/8" drill, on center with the slot. One piece of micarta has a 1/8" chain saw file inserted in it. The other piece of micarta has a piece of 1/8" drill rod inserted.

In use, the the micarta with the chain saw file is slipped over the 1/8" thick fitting. The grove in the fitting is cut, as the slot in the micarta keeps the file perfectly centered on the fitting material. A piece of sand paper is inserted through slot in the micarta with the drill rod. The sand paper is pulled tightly around the drill rod. The file marks sanded out, pulling the sand paper around to a fresh area as needed.

The sanding often leaves a dull finish in the bottom of the groove, from the grit and material particles being ground into the surface. The bottom of the groove can be cleaned up by rubbing with a Cratex point.

Neat idea, Steve!

Russell

This one on a groving tool is great. I have tried to no avail to get a truly nice grove for two weeks now. Building this jig next.

|quoted:

1) Early on, I was having a hard time getting a crisp, thin line or barb in my filework. I can't remember where I discovered this trick--I didn't come up with it on my own--but the answer is to take a half-round needle file (#2 cut or finer) and basically grind dagger bevels on the flat side. This will produce two edges with SHARP file teeth, and it will enable you to cut extremely fine marks.

cheers.

Zack

Japanese feather files have the finest edge I've seen on a file (not seen you dagger ground half round, though). They are used for sharpening Japanese saws. I've got a 3". The filing edge is delicate. I don't think they would hold up to a full hard knife blade... haven't tried it. One source in a search for... Japanese feather file

Mike

Haven't tried file work yet, but ya'll are making me think awful hard about it. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

|quoted:

Haven't tried file work yet, but ya'll are making me think awful hard about it. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

There is some neat stuff on file work in Wayne Goddard's book, "The Wonder of Knife Making". Mine is the original, not the revised, though I would figure the info made the revision.

Mike

Hi Guys.

Good Topic!

Someone have some pics with examples or how to do some kind of filework?

Thanks.

Duane Dushane has a great DVD on basic fileworking techniques. It covers 3 styles: Rope, vine, and "S" patterns. These three patterns use 2 files to complete and the DVD is very detailed on the process. Very recommendable.