I am not new to hand sanding(i prefer the world hand polishing) i have been doing it for two years both with paper and stones, and with diamond plates (DMT pocket stones that were on sale and i want to get some other grits of them but there not as good as paper). normally, I just use water and still do for my foundation (first) polish as i like to save on sandpaper and use a 220 Micron DMT pocket stone, but I started using other things to lubricate the abrasives...and yesterday it hit me that with the exception of the Citadel Black and olive oil all of these have on the label: Keep out of reach of children, the poison control hotline and in the case of the sharpening stone oil: ingestion Inhalation of white mineral oil vaper should be avoided. We are inhaling these for the hours it takes to get our hand polish done. on the other hand Oilve oil, conola oil (and other vegetable oils)...dont have this warning on them so i tried them out on a 1075 blade i am working on ...and they work very well...and smell a lot more pleasant. so why do we using Thred cutting oil, WD 40, Windex as we will be inhaling them as we polish...and i dont think we think to wear a resporator (at least i did not) as we were working.
I will acknowledge the Veggtable oils probably will encourage bactiral growth and yes there likely are people allergic to them...but those issues that can be solved just by washing them. am i saying we should be using Olive oil for thread cutting and cleaning our windows no i am saying we should use These things for their intended use only, and use vegetable oils for hand polishing. espeically since Thred cutting oil cost 1.04$ per fluid ounce well cheap olive oil cost $.22 and conola oil cost $.15 per fluid ounce and you can get a lot more of it. i found conola oil to be more water like then olive oil.
Note 1: i found the Citadel Black had a strange effect on the Matador brand sandpapers grit it was breaking down or weaking the grit as it was breaking just rubing my thumb across it and i dont know why.
Note 2: if your wondering I had the glass bottles and Pipettes for Years and got them for mixing paint and decanting paint. the bottles are all laboratory grade bottles i ordered off amazon...because they mostly prevent evaporation. the bottles were 20 bucks for 12 for the big ones on amazon at the time of posting. you can get 300 of the Pipettes for 11ish(not counting tax) bucks on amazon and they are reusable in the case of paints or food olive oil and form the i use them for dripping oil on my blades as i polish because i had them and its less of a mess.
I use either a degreaser or Simple Green cleaning solution. I buy a gallon of concentrate for around $4-$6 and a spray bottle for another $3 and it lasts for years.
“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”
Like Joshua, I, too, use Simple Green. I keep a spray bottle filled with a diluted solution of about 1 part SG and 4 parts water.
It's NOT a lubricant. Wet sanding is a technique to keep the particles being removed floating around in liquid and not building up in the paper.
Sometimes simple water, alone, works just as well.
I use either a degreaser or Simple Green cleaning solution.
THank you for the info however honestly I would not use degreaser for anything but cleaning a blade for treatmens as your brain is a gresse like substance. (i checked the dgreeser i have for Gun blueing there is a health and safety waring on it) however that Simple Green cleaning solution would not work for my style of polishing jig i clamp the blade to a board with a bevel so i get pooling the bevel is there so i dont . the 1% citric acid and the Sodium Citrate will cause more rusting even likely dailuted do to pooling. (and will use a small vise when i am doing file work) as i have injured myself to the point needing a ER visit myself using the vice to hold the blade of hand sanding and there is always the risk of clutsy moments with the tip and i have ADHD and even medicated i am more prone to these moments. (i am going to share a link to the Datasheet just to have that information out as it seems like good stuff to use) and in this day an age were peoples lungs may not be in the best shape i feel this subject is important b
https://cdn.simplegreen.com/downloads/SDS_EN-US_SimpleGreenAllPurposeCleaner.pdf
Note: the ducktape is there just to keep the board from being exposed to water...the masking tape is there to prevent the adhesive of the ducktape from getting on the blade as i did not place it a good as i could have.
It's NOT a lubricant. Wet sanding is a technique to keep the particles being removed floating around in liquid and not building up in the paper.
THank you for the explanation this is what i meant by using the world 'Lubracate' i may have used it wronge
And I want to say thank you to you both as you always have given me a lot of good advice. so thank you for sharing your knowledge with me and others.
I used to use simple green as well, but just got tired of the smell. It was ok at first, but the more I used it I didn't like it. Now I just use windex or water. Like Karl said, it's main function is to keep the paper from loading up.
Simple Green or Windex for me. Whichever one I'm not out of at the time.
Side note: I noticed two days ago when I went to water that the paper acts like wet paper something that does not happen with olive oil or canola oil.
