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What Are The Best Style Hammers For A Hammer Polish/finish Hammering And Edge Beviling

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|quoted:

On the subject of hammer marks in your work... there are basically two things that come into play.

1. Shape/Condition of the hammer face(s), and the anvil face. People often think I'm OCD when it comes to these factors, but I like to keep both hammer faces and anvil faces mirror polished. Hammer faces should also be convex. If you're trying to use a "Hardware store" hammer, it's very likely flat faced, and poorly finished. With these type hammer beginners generally have a lot of "crescent" shaped marks in their work. This is due to the outer edges of the hammer face being driving int o the work piece.

2. HAMMER TECHNIQUE, which is what I suspect in this case. With a convex faced hammer, and some time/practice, you can learn to create a very clean "forged finish". The thing to remember about forging anything is that it's NOT about brute force, but rather FINESSE.

Based on your comments, I assume you do not own an anvil at the present. I know a person has to do what they have to do, and any anvil is better then none at all, but my advice is to NOT buy a 70 pound anvil. It's way too light weight. Personally, I recommend no less then a 125 pound anvil. With a 70lb anvil you will work yourself to death, and never get much done. Those anvils you referenced are not very good anvils to begin with, and they are also designed/built for farrier (horse shoeing) work. I would recommend saving some more money, and go with another/larger anvil.

Main pro blame is getting the thing set up once i have it but i guess i can get some help. i do have a anvil but its a little tiny 9 pound anvil made form cast iron. i stoped using this and switched to a striking face bench vice. i just added a 4 inch Steel Bench Block on top of the striking face as i had cut into it well i was using my angle grinder to cutting off some unwelded portions of my first attempt at twist patterned Damascus. i just used some fireplace cement. if this gives out then ill have to use engine epoxy as i do not have welder. i have for managed to make just enough Damascus for a guard so i count it as a succsess. Ill keep all your advice in mind and continue research in preparation to buy.

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Posted : 27/04/2017 2:58 pm
Posts: 104
Estimable Member Journeyman Bladesmith
 

|quoted:

That was awesome JJ. I love how the sheath maker was holding the work piece with his feet. It reminded me of when I was in Maui and had a mask carved by a fellow who held the piece of wood with his feet while he carved it.

The "anvils" those guys are using look like the heads of sledge hammers stuck in the ground.

Yeah, they get it done.

I loved that the handle polish clamp was sitting on the blade.

Yep the anvils are large sledge heads.

 
Posted : 27/04/2017 7:59 pm
Posts: 296
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|quoted:

A good example of the minimal amount of anvil you need to make a blade and a curved blade at that.

Love these guys.

https://www.youtube....h?v=qol5Ey3sImQ

Hmm, i would do use one of them little things but i have a lot of trouble kneeling for long amounts of time as i just never had very flexible legs. so if im hunched up on the floor i am sitting on my butt. but that is not all that much bigger then what i am using right now. it also reminds me i need to swap out the portable work bench im using soon as its collapsing on me. its held together by duck tape right now but it works for what i need it to so i think i will wait till it fully collapses on me. however i tend to avoid using my feet to hold things, but when you have been burned and cut by a hot hotdog/marshmello holder you tend to shy away from doing that... i have had this happen on both of my feet.

this is a great video to watch hammering techniques. i'm of the opinion that watching a smith work his hammer is just as useful as watching a welder weld. this is what my welding instructor told us to do from time to time. any one else cringing when at the fact that some of the guys were hammering fairly cold looking steel.

 
Posted : 27/04/2017 8:31 pm
Posts: 296
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|quoted:

Main pro blame is getting the thing set up once i have it but i guess i can get some help. i do have a anvil but its a little tiny 9 pound anvil made form cast iron. i stoped using this and switched to a striking face bench vice. i just added a 4 inch Steel Bench Block on top of the striking face as i had cut into it well i was using my angle grinder to cutting off some unwelded portions of my first attempt at twist patterned Damascus. i just used some fireplace cement. if this gives out then ill have to use engine epoxy as i do not have welder. i have for managed to make just enough Damascus for a guard so i count it as a succsess. Ill keep all your advice in mind and continue research in preparation to buy.

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ya i kinda just saw that Runnings the local farm and fleet store i buy my cutting disks at, has a small 25 pound anvil. well small its still a step up from what i am using. its about 63 bucks including the likely cost of the mounting hardwear i will need. i figure well its not the best i can get it should last me till i have enough to get great anvil.

 
Posted : 30/04/2017 6:50 pm
Matthew Parkinson
Posts: 549
Honorable Member Journeyman Bladesmith (5yr)
 

on anvils it is a buy once cry once sort of thing, buying anything less than 75-100lb is a wast of money and will not do what you need. will it work.. sort of, will it work well no.

the 112lb NC tool anvils are decent for the money they end up around $5LB delivered , we picked up several as student anvils and the work very well.

MP

 
Posted : 01/05/2017 6:44 am
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