I attempted to forge a full tang knife where I needed it to be wider in the middle of the knife than the bar stock I was starting with, for a guard/finger groove on the bottom and a thumb ramp (not sure what the correct term would be) on the top. I also wanted to incorporate my first distal taper. I thought I could start at the ends and move metal toward the middle of the knife and use that metal to shape my finger guard and thumb ramp. While I did manage to get the bar somewhat widened out where I needed it, I didn't get it widened enough. And, I didn't manage to move the metal toward the middle. Instead I ended up drawing the bar out. What I wanted to be a 10" knife ended up being more like 14".
Can anyone give me some advice on what I'm doing wrong, and/or point me to some links? I've tried much Googling and search on the site, but am not finding what I need. THANKS!
Jesse do a search for Nick Rossi youtube videos. They will give you a lot of information. You have to do some upsetting of the stock with the edge of the anvil and careful hammer work where your guard will be. You will also have to use the pein on your hammer to widen in areas. Nick is a master at it.
Brion
Brion Tomberlin
Anvil Top Custom Knives
ABS Mastersmith
This where a coal forge is an advantage over the gas forge, IMO. When I have to upset in the middle of the bar, I can isolate the heat better in the coal forge. Of course, one could use a rosebud torch and upset specific areas as well.
Another approach is to start with a round bar, carefully changing the direction of the forging in the appropriate areas.
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Jesse do a search for Nick Rossi youtube videos. They will give you a lot of information. You have to do some upsetting of the stock with the edge of the anvil and careful hammer work where your guard will be. You will also have to use the pein on your hammer to widen in areas. Nick is a master at it.
Brion
Thanks, Brion. I looked him up but haven't found what I'm looking for yet. I'll look through his videos some more.
|quoted:
This where a coal forge is an advantage over the gas forge, IMO. When I have to upset in the middle of the bar, I can isolate the heat better in the coal forge. Of course, one could use a rosebud torch and upset specific areas as well.
Another approach is to start with a round bar, carefully changing the direction of the forging in the appropriate areas.
Lin, I had the same thought about a coal forge. I even found myself wondering if there was a quench that would cool the ends of the bar slow enough to hammer on it without cracking. LOL. I took a second go at it using a torch to upset the middle area. I think I got it close enough. It would have been a lot easier with fresh stock that I hadn't already tapered.
Jesse,
For the technique you mentioned, quenching either side is one that blacksmiths have used for many years. When using mild steel or iron, water is used. When high carbon steel is used, I would suggest oil or another means to cool it without the undue stress. You may have to use your imagination. A damp rag or a splash of water on the anvil in the right places. The last thing you want to be doing is striking the end where you have cooled/hardened and risk breaking (or worse cracking) it and finding out later in the process. If done properly, it is merely a moderate cooling to lower the temperature a couple hundred degrees. So as long as you just quench it for a second or two you should be safe since the piece will have enough residual heat to relieve any stresses so as to allow a hammer blow.
The above technique is more forgiving if used on pieces with substantial mass. As it gets thinner, I would use extreme caution lest you add exponential risk of breaking it.
Jesse,
Below is a link to Joe Keeslar forging one of his Brut de Forge style knives. With out a sketch of what you are trying to accomplish, an isolated upset as your discussing or if your design allows upset the area like Joe does then move that material to your finger guard/thumb bump. Needs to be planned for how much material you need to move and while the material is at its starting thickness. Joe makes a dagger with a double guard, the material can be moved top and bottom.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WItJDKlGdSw
Steve Seib
