Hey all,
I'd really like some suggestions to help solve a little problem I have. I recently made a modified competition chopper. I used some black/olive drab layered G10 scales for the handle and I soaked the blade in ferric for a dark gray, subdued, tactical type look. I think it came out really well...however....
The coloring of the blade doesn't stand up well to use. Pretty much anything more strenuous than cutting hemp rope will scratch that color off of the blade.
My question is this: Is there a way/technique to set that color with a more permanence and be tougher to scratch?
I did a differential heat treat, soaked in ferric for about 1 hour, neutralized, and oiled. I then sealed with carnuba....
Any and all suggestions are welcome from the wealth of knowledge y'all possess...
All the best,
Chad
Try a different technique - only etch for about 10 minutes at a time, repeatedly until you get the desired effect. Scrub off the residue between etches with some 0000 steel wool.
As the steel reacts to the acid and the residue builds up on the surface, that residue can actually create a barrier between the steel and the FeCl, effecting the etch.
Try more etching periods of much shorter duration.
Clean your steel with soap and water - don't put oils or petroleum distillates on the steel. If you do, finish with a good scrubbing of soap and HOT water with a tooth brush making sure all the soap is rinsed off.
Do not touch the steel with your hands between etches.
Take your time.
Karl B. Andersen
Journeyman Smith
I'm not aware of any coating that will hold up to hard use - the thicker the coating, the longer before it'll wear away, but whether it be knives, 1911s, double walled water bottles, the coatings all will wear away with use over time - that's how you can tell folks actually use their knives. For damascus steel rather than mono steel, a very deep etch helps as the recessed bits are harder to wear away at...
Curious to hear others input on this topic (coffee etch, gunkote, powdercoating, goat sweat...)
|quoted:
Try a different technique - only etch for about 10 minutes at a time, repeatedly until you get the desired effect. Scrub off the residue between etches with some 0000 steel wool.
As the steel reacts to the acid and the residue builds up on the surface, that residue can actually create a barrier between the steel and the FeCl, effecting the etch.
Try more etching periods of much shorter duration.
Clean your steel with soap and water - don't put oils or petroleum distillates on the steel. If you do, finish with a good scrubbing of soap and HOT water with a tooth brush making sure all the soap is rinsed off.
Do not touch the steel with your hands between etches.
Take your time.
Thanks Karl. I will try this technique for sure. I really appreciate it the help.
|quoted:
I'm not aware of any coating that will hold up to hard use - the thicker the coating, the longer before it'll wear away, but whether it be knives, 1911s, double walled water bottles, the coatings all will wear away with use over time - that's how you can tell folks actually use their knives. For damascus steel rather than mono steel, a very deep etch helps as the recessed bits are harder to wear away at...
Curious to hear others input on this topic (coffee etch, gunkote, powdercoating, goat sweat...)
Hey David,
I know that nothing will be permanent, but I'm trying to make it just "more" durable than it currently is. I know this place is a wealth of knowledge and somebody will have some cool ways...like Karl. I'm even willing to try to find some goat sweat if it will work...Ha...
|quoted:
Hey David,
I know that nothing will be permanent, but I'm trying to make it just "more" durable than it currently is. I know this place is a wealth of knowledge and somebody will have some cool ways...like Karl. I'm even willing to try to find some goat sweat if it will work...Ha...
Caswells makes a black oxide finish that is pretty tough. I have heard,(but not verified) that Parkerizing is a tough finish. I have also had good luck with Birchwood Casey Plum Brown patina, but I had to bake the blade at 200 degrees right before applying the first coat, then again between coats and I put 3 or 4 coats on it. It is a dark brown, not a gray color though.
Joshua States
www.dosgatosforge.com
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCdJMFMqnbLYqv965xd64vYg
https://www.facebook.com/dos.gatos.71
Also on Instagram and Facebook as J.States Bladesmith
“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.â€