Never thought about preparing for mistakes but that does make sense.  Honestly ive never tapped or die'd anything but i understand the concept.  Having a few sizes seems legit to me now that you brought it up. Thank you for that!!

My input is that as your shop/equipment grows, a tap-n-Die set will be more and more useful.  I personally have tried any number of brands, but like the Irwin brand best.   That's because they have useful features that many others do not....as in the taps (what makes internal threads) that are tapered in such a manner...that you can't start tapping crooked, which is far easier to occur than you might think.   When it comes to the the "Dies" (used for creating external threads such as a bolt has), be sure to purchase those that are hex shaped, and NOT round.  With a hex-shaped die, you can use a large adjustable wrench, or even large split joint pliers to turn the die is it necessary/more convenient.

  I actually have several "kits"..... here's the ones I could find quickly....

 My handle set:  https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-4935055-Performance/dp/B002M78QP0

 My Die Set:  https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-4935060-Pitches/dp/B002M78QVE

I also have the matching tap set, but couldn't find a quick example.

  Its really one of those tools that you don't realize you need....until you do, and nothing else will do the job.  Then, after you get a good set, you find yourself using it more then you ever thought you would. 😉 

  When it comes to knives, frankly I almost never use a tap/die, with the exception of making folders....and those are a whole other class of taps/dies.....  a "good" 2-56 tap can cost almost as much as a lower priced SET.   But we'll talk about that at another time.

Good deal!  I hadnt seen those but Irwin was on my list.  I have a few of their tools and havent been disappointed.  Thank you sir for your response.  Those kits appear to be perfect.  

Ive been daydreaming about threading a tang of a knife as opposed to the other options.  It just seems to be the way that i want to start anyway.  I may bust out the all thread and the mig after trying it.  

Thank you gentlemen.  I sure appreciate it. 

I have had horrible experiences with Irwin taps. I did a class a few years ago making forges the school supplied irwin taps.. we had four they all broke after 1-2 holes.  I had one spiral point tap from Mc Master we ended up tapping pretty much all 30 remaining holes with that one tap.. 

There are several types of tapes , taper point or starting taps,  bottoming taps (flat ended for blind holes, spiral points or gun taps .(for through holes) Each type of tap has a purpose.   There are also several class of fits but for the most part non of us will need to deal with that getting a starret chart (drill chart) that gives all of the minor diameter's for tapping is also essential, for example many will use a 3/16 (0.1875) drill for 1/4" thread the correct size is #7 drill (0.2010) and for a easier tap but shallower tread a #6 will work (0.2040).  Using the correct size hole prevents broken taps.

Using actual tapping fluid not oil. kero can work on brass or copper in a pinch, but in steel a real tapping fluid like tap magic is worth the expense. Using wd40 or 3in1 is as likely to hurt as help with tapping. 

MP

I forgot about mcmaster carr!  Thank you sir for your time and advice!!