Wait. I want to rebound, right? I was starting to feel under the weather when i asks and not thinking clearly.
The biggest thing I have learned when asking a question from the experienced folks on here is: Be prepared to ask questions you are ready to hear answers to. I think when I got started I was trying to minimize my expenses and get the most out of the expertise. I had a 50 year old homemade anvil made out of welded plates of steel that was held onto a wabbly stump with 4" screws on the outside of the anvil base plate. I asked some of the MS level guys what I should be doing to get better at smithing and the answer was basically: buy a better bigger anvil, buy or build a precise and professional stand, and take a professional course on how to get better. Now, was I prepared for that answer with the expense and time required to fulfill the advice given from the master? No, I really wasn't honest with myself before I asked for the expertise.
But I tell you what, once I saved up and bought 132lbs anvil, wrapped it with 150lbs of chains, and built a flat and even vise stand with oak beams and silicon underside; the first strike was indescribably different. First the ringing in my ears even with ear protection stopped. And most importantly I didn't have to raise a 6lbs hammer to a slam-dunking height to move metal. It used to take me about 4 hours of swinging and taking breaks to shape a knife. With a real anvil I can do about the same work on two knives in two hours. Again, I still am trying to save up for a professional class and be prepared to have recommendations from that class for upgraded equipment. But I am now just slightly more prepared to receive the information that I am asking for. Heck even your last answer to one of my questions about guard-fit has left me hours of researching and reading to find out what training I need to hotfit material. Best of luck!
Respectfully
Michael
Wait. I want to rebound, right?
Yes and from my billiard ball example the most rebound happens with the larger mass blow the work piece
“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”
Heck even your last answer to one of my questions about guard-fit has left me hours of researching and reading to find out what training I need to hotfit material. Best of luck!
I am glad I could help with that.
I am kind of more confused about whether rebound, in this case, is what you test for with the ball-barring test, as my little anvil is 1050 cast steel (it's a first-run Atlus anvil, and those were if i recall right1050 cast steel, if I recall right). The reason I have it wired is more to help hold the anvil up, as the one issue the thing has is the bolt holds are only half holes instead of full holes.
Yes and from my billiard ball example the most rebound happens with the larger mass blow the work piece
Thanks; I have that with this stand (but I am going to admit I would redesign). My main issue was that my stand was sliding across the floor since I got the Atlus anvil, which, as I mentioned, is 1050 cast steel and has great rebound. so great i was actually getting horizontal movement...which was getting anoing
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Thanks; I have that with this stand
Well, you don't have it really. What you have is a large mass below the anvil, but there is space between that mass (concrete bag) and the anvil which is filled with a couple of what look like 2x4s on their sides. That is the weak point in force transfer.
Take a look at the anvil stand I posted earlier with the 2x10 boards on end and offset to create hammer/tong holders. You will see I chiseled out a depression in the top to match the anvil base. This keeps the anvil from sliding or moving sideways. If you do the same, and put a bed of caulking in that depression, you will find the positive effects of this are dramatic.
I'll post another pic of the same stand here.
“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”
I do need to replace the top of it, as I used oak boards and made it with the idea of that part being consumable. When I do that, I can modify it (it's going to be a bit as I am currently in the hospital with a hole in my colon from an infection, and I need to be monitored while I heal. Can I get a side view of the stand so I can see what else I need to modify?
Can I get a side view of the stand so I can see what else I need to modify?
Unfortuanately that stand is in the storage locker while we pack up the shop to move and the only pics I have available are the two that I posted in this discussion.
“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”
i will at
Unfortuanately that stand is in the storage locker while we pack up the shop to move and the only pics I have available are the two that I posted in this discu
No problem i will atleast router out and silicon it into place when i can replace the top boards.
Side note: well, I am not sure if it influenced me because I dont remember when I made the stand and mine is made of 2x4 and oak board. well not made from steel. My stand is not that dissimilar from this stand from the MN School of Horseshoeing, where I learned to forge in 2019 via 4-weekend classes from the Guild of Metalsmiths (I am not a Farrier)...and these have been working since 1972.
