I'm not sure what you mean by "match up", but the epoxy and the scratching problem I can definitely help you out with.

Vaseline is your friend.

Prior to glue up, I take the blade and wrap it in a lint-free paper towel (the blue shop paper towels seem to work well). It goes right up to the plunge cuts and I run a ring of blue painter's tape (the really low tack stuff) down the seam and around the plunge cut and just a thin line onto the ricasso. Assemble the knife with no glue and clamp together. Now put a light smear of Vaseline on every surface you do not want epoxy sticking to, including the blue tape. (I actually buy the cheapest jar of generic petroleum jelly I can find) Disassemble and glue it up as usual. Once the clamps are on and the alignment is set (the epoxy has probably gotten all over the places you don't want it sticking to) take a Q-tip with a blob of Vaseline on it and start to work it into the excess glue. Wipe clean with a paper towel and keep applying the Vaseline and wiping off until you just have a thin layer of Vaseline/epoxy mix on the surfaces. This will peel off easily using a wood toothpick and light pressure. The Vaseline keeps the epoxy from fully setting. It stays malleable and doesn't stick. The wood toothpick may mar the surface slightly, but these can be buffed out easily.

Most stainless (I typically use the 400 series stuff) I will usually sand to 600 grit and buff to a shine or leave satin at 600.

As for nickel silver, it will buff to a shine after about 400 grit. It is far softer than the stainless, so be careful. It scratches easier.

416 Stainless finishes easier than most other materials.

Use an epoxy that wipes clean with denatured alcohol - such as West System.

After a short set-up time any excess will wipe clean with alcohol and that way you harm nothing of your previous work/efforts.

Be sure to have good tight fit with all your parts and wipe the squeeze-out with alcohol before it hardens. You can nearly have your knife 100% done before you use any adhesive.

Thanks guys I appreciate it. I use accra glass. After glue up I've been wiping off excess with denatured alchohol. But when I think I've got everything wiped down. There will be a little dried on. Then I try to scrape it off marring the gaurd. I'm gonna try the vaseline trick on the next round of knives. Thanks for the info.

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Thanks guys I appreciate it. I use accra glass. After glue up I've been wiping off excess with denatured alchohol. But when I think I've got everything wiped down. There will be a little dried on. Then I try to scrape it off marring the gaurd. I'm gonna try the vaseline trick on the next round of knives. Thanks for the info.

Brian, 416 ss machines and finishes much better than most guard materials I've found. It's easy to file, cut, engrave, and finish. As to you question about finishing, yes, I completely finish the front surface of the guard before installing it on the blade. Normally, I "try fit" the guard several times to make sure my fit is proper, then install it tightly and seal the joint with cyanoacrylate (super) glue to seal the joint against any epoxy seepage when I glue up with the Acraglas. It's really thin stuff when it's first applied (which I really like) but it'll seep through that joint if you don't seal it with something or have a drive-on fit so tight that it can't. The superglue is simple to clean up later with "superglue debonder" or acetone and soft cotton rags. Be sure to use new rags and stay away from metal backings, so you don't scratch the guard surface.