It all comes down to basic physics, and it is all about how much mass you have in an immovable base. Be it power hammer sow blocks or anvils I have seen so much kinetic energy wasted and absorbed by a poorly planned system. For anvils it comes down to portability vs. a solid base. A steel framework stand is ideal for something that you wish to move from different positions around the shop or other locations, but you totally sacrifice efficiency of blows for this convenience. When I teach at schools that have the steel anvil stands I love the portability of a steel frame stand, but I know all along that I am sacrificing efficiency of hammer blows for it.

It is simple physics, the more solid mass you have under that blow, the more energy you can put into the work piece rather than vibration and rebound of the foundation system. Steel angle iron, and such, is the least efficient, solid foundations are better and embedded solid foundations are the best.

For this reason, all my anvils in my home shop are mounted on solid 20-24” oak log sections. This is still a compromise for the ability to move them if needed. Ideally, for maximum efficiency, I would have then embedded at least 2 feet into a solid earth base. If you ever forge on such a setup you will understand why within a couple of hammer blows.

I have also worked on plenty of stacked 2X4 or 4x4 bases and still felt the difference. I have watched the sow block of power hammers bounce on a 4x4 base, and hit with about half of their potential force because of it. I followed the original 1924 instructions for the foundation of my Bradley hammer and poured a 4’X4’x6’ foundation and have enjoyed the power it gives that hammer.

So, as with everything, it is a compromise. In this case it is the trade-off of convenience to move that anvil to the efficiency of blows. I would recommend the greatest grounded mass for the level of dedicated position that you can afford.

What I did was find a local saw mill that had log ends, or friends with oak trees they wanted gone, and got my anvil stands from them.

Kevin's assessment is about the best you can get. We have two different anvil bases, both made from wood. The first one is a box frame filled with sand. A piece of 3/4" plywood fits over the top inside the rim of the box.

We have attached rails to the side to hold hammers and tongs.

The other one is made from 2x10 Douglas Fir boards, nailed together with a 1-1/2" offset. A metal strap across the sides creates the hammer/tong holders. The top is recessed to match the footprint of the anvil base.

Not ideal in terms of maximum mass below the anvil, but a decent compromise for portability. I can move either of these, with the anvil in place (one is 200# the other 150#), using a heavy duty hand truck.

Thank you both! I am not terribly concerned about mobility so it sounds like a steel base isn’t the way to go for me. We have some good size trees around here but it seems like I can never get to them before the bugs do

I have my anvil mounted to a heavy metal base and lag bolted to my concrete floor. I have had other visiting smiths tell me that my 168# hammer works like a much bigger anvil. Hope that helps a shade

<img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//biggrin.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' />

When Kevin mentioned "oak trees" I had to smile. Here in Montana, most hardwoods (oak, hickory, etc) are considered exotic hardwoods, and you either pay BIG bucks per board foot, or you use soft woods.... usually some variety of pine.

There is a HUGE difference in the energy transfer, not only from steel stands to wooden stands, but also from soft wood stands to hardwood stands.

I used pine bridge timbers for anvil stands when I first moved to Montana, but several years ago we took a trip to Indiana (where we grew up), and purchased a trailer load of oak, hickory, cherry, and walnut. I sized the oak to be able to build new anvil stands....and there is a huge/very noticeable difference in how much more efficient the same anvil is when used on an oak stand, versus a soft wood or metal stand.

I personally have tried metal anvils stands in the past, and unless the only factor is mobility, I'd never use a metal stand. In my experience, metal anvils stands are just handicapping yourself unnecessarily.