So I have been trying to find a Japanese style dog head hammer for some time now, as I don't want to spend 92-100$+ on a hammer as i am on a very limited budget until I start selling blades. So I want to make one, however, I do not know what the best heat treatment is for hammers nor do I know what kind of steel I should use. also I do not know the best "Wall" thickness for the socket. So ya any tips would be nice.
Kevin,
Do some research before you start. However, it is very doable and rewarding to make your own hammer head. If you're going to make one, you're likely to have to buy or make your own hammer head drift as well. To make the drift, study known drifts and imitate those.
1045 is a good steel as well as 4140.
I would watch some youtube videos about forging hammer heads and gather your information and tools, then proceed. Lyle Wynn is a blacksmith in Mississippi who makes some fine hammers. I think he has some videos on youtube and facebook. There are many others.
Let us know how it turns out.
Hi Kevin, I see you are from my neck of the woods so to speak. Our local blacksmithing group, the Guild of Metalsmiths, puts on a hammer making class the first Saturday in May. I know it's a long way off now, but keep it in mind for next year. I'm not sure if you are a member or not but we offer a lot of good classes. Plus, there is a pretty active group of knife makers within the group.
Let me know if you want more info.
Jim Moenck
I produce all the Angle Peen hammers I build from 4140. I feel that it's ideal to make a hammer that is slightly softer then the anvil face. Most "quality" anvils will be in the 52-55Rc range, with that in mind, I make it a point to temper hammers to approx. a 50Rc. The reasoning for a softer hammer is that IF a mis-blow is made with any "standard" hammer (most commercial hammers have a Rc of 55-57) you will damage the face of the anvil...which is a BEAR to repair. With a softer hammer, a mis-blow means you "ding" the hammer face, which is MUCH easier/simpler to repair on a a belt grinder.
http://www.caffreyknives.net/angle_peen-hammers.html
Ed Caffrey, ABS MS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
www.CaffreyKnives.net
|quoted:
Hi Kevin, I see you are from my neck of the woods so to speak. Our local blacksmithing group, the Guild of Metalsmiths, puts on a hammer making class the first Saturday in May. I know it's a long way off now, but keep it in mind for next year. I'm not sure if you are a member or not but we offer a lot of good classes. Plus, there is a pretty active group of knife makers within the group.
Let me know if you want more info.
Jim Moenck
I would not mind more info as that Saturday is the is the day before my birthday next year, so it would be a nice birthday gift to my self. I can always join up soonish. Taking some classes can only improve my technique so ill take it ether way as I am self taught. i just looked up you guys and your due is not bad so ill be joining up if one of my fillet knifes sell or i get a my SSI check next month.
|quoted:
I produce all the Angle Peen hammers I build from 4140. I feel that it's ideal to make a hammer that is slightly softer then the anvil face. Most "quality" anvils will be in the 52-55Rc range, with that in mind, I make it a point to temper hammers to approx. a 50Rc. The reasoning for a softer hammer is that IF a mis-blow is made with any "standard" hammer (most commercial hammers have a Rc of 55-57) you will damage the face of the anvil...which is a BEAR to repair. With a softer hammer, a mis-blow means you "ding" the hammer face, which is MUCH easier/simpler to repair on a a belt grinder.
http://www.caffreykn...en-hammers.html
thanks for the info. hmm i just checked out your site and i have to say your iron roses are extremely impressive. I can see one way to make them just by looking at them as i am a trained welder, which makes them all the more impressive.
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Kevin,
Do some research before you start. However, it is very doable and rewarding to make your own hammer head. If you're going to make one, you're likely to have to buy or make your own hammer head drift as well. To make the drift, study known drifts and imitate those.
1045 is a good steel as well as 4140.
I would watch some youtube videos about forging hammer heads and gather your information and tools, then proceed. Lyle Wynn is a blacksmith in Mississippi who makes some fine hammers. I think he has some videos on youtube and facebook. There are many others.
Let us know how it turns out.
I have done some drifting as I have had some trouble drilling. however these were done with punches meant to remove pins. I was thinking I would just drill a hole then spend a few hours aggering out a hole with my trusty dremel tool. I am a bit limited as my forge only has a two inch opening. Ill let you guys know how it goes when i get around to making it as right now i am practicing making Damascus using up bits of steel scrap i have left over form the 40 blades I have made so far. At least i think i have made 40 I lost count. I not really trying to do any contrasting patterning yet though.
Whats the right temper for a Drift? I have been trying to find this out but i have had no luck.
